At Korea's Irish pub 'office,' ambassador shares lessons from home on inclusion and peace

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At Korea's Irish pub 'office,' ambassador shares lessons from home on inclusion and peace

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI


Irish Ambassador to Korea Michelle Winthrop poses with Irish dishes during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily at The Craic House in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Aug. 21. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Irish Ambassador to Korea Michelle Winthrop poses with Irish dishes during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily at The Craic House in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Aug. 21. [PARK SANG-MOON]



[AMBASSADOR'S TABLE]
 
Seoul’s ambassadors are often gastronomes keen to share a taste of their home cuisine. In this series, the Korea JoongAng Daily asks the diplomatic corps to introduce our readers to their favorite restaurants representing cuisine from their homelands, while chatting about issues of interest to our Korean and global audience. — Ed. 
 
 
When Irish Ambassador to Korea Michelle Winthrop wants to meet Irish citizens, talk policy or just relax over live music, she heads not to her chancery in Jung District, but to a pub in Itaewon. 
 
“[The Craic House] really is an extension of the embassy,” Winthrop said in a recent interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily, referring to one of Seoul’s most authentic  Irish pubs. 
 
"Even though I am the Irish ambassador and I am paid to be enthusiastic about Ireland and all of that stuff, I get homesick sick too — I want to feel at home, I want to surround myself by Irish people sometimes," she said. "Sometimes I come in here and I end up sitting with the lads and for several hours we've covered politics in Korea, politics in Ireland and funny memories."
 

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In Ireland, the pub is more than a watering hole — it’s a symbol of community life. And it’s this sense of inclusion and openness that Winthrop hopes to share with Korea. 
 
Over a pint, while watching Gaelic football, the ambassador believes real connections between Ireland and Korea are forged not only through trade and diplomacy, but through shared values. 
 
“When I came here first, I was told not to talk about gender — it’s very sensitive,” said Winthrop, one of the few female heads of mission in Seoul. “But if you just open the door a little bit, economic success will come.”
 
Ireland’s pivot from social conservatism to one of the world’s most progressive democracies — legalizing same-sex marriage, embracing immigration — coincided with a tech and cultural boom. 
 
The ambassador also sees parallels between Ireland and Korea as nations shaped by trauma and resilience through the experience of colonization and subsequent liberation.  
 
“We're a bit [like] the whole Korean han thing, the kind of slightly melancholic, that as well," she said. "We rely on partnerships and on global solidarity like the UN. They always used to say that Korea is the Ireland of Asia, and I flipped it on its head and said 'No, Ireland is the Korea of Europe.'"
 
Below are excerpts from the interview, edited for length and clarity.
 

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Irish Ambassador to Korea Michelle Winthrop speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily at The Craic House in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Aug. 21. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Irish Ambassador to Korea Michelle Winthrop speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily at The Craic House in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Aug. 21. [PARK SANG-MOON]

How would you compare the Korean culture to Irish culture?
 
People used to say Korea is the Ireland of Asia — I flip it and say Ireland is the Korea of Europe. We have so many similarities. The Korean concept of han — that slightly melancholic spirit — we’re like that too. We’re not afraid of sadness or difficult stories. Irish movies and books can be depressing, just like "Pachinko" (2022). But we rely on storytelling. 
There’s an interesting economic parallel: both Ireland and Korea were economically stagnant for decades. Then something shifted. For Korea, it was the Seoul Olympics in 1988, and for Ireland, it was qualifying for the World Cup in 1990. That sparked national pride, confidence. 
Even our relationship with the U.K. is similar to Korea’s with Japan — lots of history, lots of pain, but an important relationship that governments need to manage carefully.
 
Is there still hostility in Ireland against U.K. like Korea’s “No Japan” movement? 


Not really. We’re still sensitive, especially about being patronized or disrespected, but there’s no anti-British movement. There are no protests outside the British Embassy in Dublin.
We had been terrible for decades at football, and we got an English manager in 1990. He basically brought the team up to scratch and he's the one who brought us to the World Cup.
I think sometimes people who don’t understand those relationships try to oversimplify it. It’s a bit like a family member. You get on — sometimes you’re really close to, sometimes you fight — or when you fight, you fight really bitterly. But when you're close, you're really close.
 
Yes supporters celebrate as the first results start to filter through in the Irish referendum in Dublin, Ireland, on May 23, 2015. Ireland has voted resoundingly to legalize gay marriage in the world's first national vote on the issue [AP/YONHAP]

Yes supporters celebrate as the first results start to filter through in the Irish referendum in Dublin, Ireland, on May 23, 2015. Ireland has voted resoundingly to legalize gay marriage in the world's first national vote on the issue [AP/YONHAP]

Ireland is known for its leadership in gender equality, LGBTQ+ rights and immigrant inclusion. How would you describe the transformation in recent years?
 
We weren't always open. We were quite closed and quite conservative. I remember a time when Ireland was exclusively white, it was illegal to be gay and it was tough for women. Probably over the course of about 15 years we had a lot of rapid change. We had our first female president in 1990 and she started to shake things up.
The two have gone side by side: economic progress and social progress. I think the referendum on equal marriage in 2015 was a big one. There were a lot of conversations that happened at people's kitchen tables, in the pub — young gay people sitting down with their grandparents saying, “Granny, do it for me.” People realized the people we’re voting on aren’t monsters — they’re our grandsons, our friends, the nice guy who works in the shop. 
 
Korea is also undergoing rapid change in such talks. What do you tell countries like Korea that are in a different stage of that journey?
 
When I came here first, I was told not to talk about gender — it’s sensitive. But I’m a woman, and I know what’s good and appropriate.  In Ireland, it’s not a political issue anymore. We do okay: women in the workplace, in corporate leadership, public life, girls' education — all good. But we still have a problem with women in politics. 
Our statistics for women parliamentarians are about the same as Korea's, 20 to 23 percent. Women in Ireland don’t want to run for office because there’s a lot of online abuse. I'd love to work more closely with Korea to fix that. If you don’t have women at the table, women are outside the room looking in.
For countries like Korea, I'm always preaching this message: if you open up opinions a little bit, if you just open the door a little bit, economic success will come.
For decades, LGBT people in Ireland moved to London. Frankly, many of those people were really talented, really bright, really clever, and went on to be really successful businesspeople. That was an economic gain to the U.K. and an economic loss to Ireland.
We had a Pride weekend in Dublin, and the local businesses recorded higher revenue on the weekend of Pride than they had on St. Patrick’s Day. So let them be in Ireland, let them contribute to our economy. That’s our philosophy — and it's made a big difference.
 
What lessons from Ireland’s post-Good Friday Agreement peace process in 1998 do you believe could be relevant to inter-Korean relations today?
 
The important thing is peace. In Ireland, we realized that a long time ago. It’s complicated. 
In Northern Ireland, some people see themselves as Irish, some as British, some as both — and that’s fine. The beauty of the Good Friday Agreement is that flexibility. That kind of thinking enabled us to reach where we are now.
We have strong economic ties between North and South, free movement and people in the North can have either Irish or British passports, or both. There are hurdles, of course. There are no nuclear weapons in Ireland, and even during its darkest days, the Northern Ireland government didn’t have to deal with that. But as a principle or a vision, it’s something interesting to consider.
 
Any sectors the embassy is especially promoting?


Education is a big one because it has a knock-on effect. Language learning is great, but we want people who understand Ireland and want to do business with us, visit and build lasting ties.
Korean students who come to Ireland for master’s degrees often create business links — say, in food science. We’re now being more structured in how we interact with alumni.
We recently expanded the working holiday program from 600 to 800 people, and raised the age from 31 to 35. Korean participants are successful, independent and don’t cause trouble. It was a no-brainer to expand. We’re also encouraging young Irish people to come to Korea.
 
What opportunities can Korean students find in Ireland?


Our universities have high employability rates. Courses are tailored to industry needs, not just academic, but skill-based. Some courses even have 100 percent employment rates in the field. The link to industry extends to Korea as well. Students often say they feel freer in Ireland. We’re proud of that.
 
The Craic House, an Irish pub in Itaewon in central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

The Craic House, an Irish pub in Itaewon in central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

What makes Irish pubs special compared to other bars?
 
Irish pubs are not just for drinking. They're where all of life’s events happen — from christenings to funerals. Unlike British pubs, where people often play games, Irish pubs focus on conversation, storytelling and sociability over games or activities.
This pub [The Craic House] is considered the most authentic Irish pub in Seoul. It's more than a bar — it’s the heart of the Irish community, hosting live music, poetry and sports events. It feels like home, even for  myself  and my family. I try to limit visits to about once a month to avoid being “the ambassador always at the pub,” but expect to come more frequently toward the end of my posting.
I think it goes back to a time in Ireland when people were historically very poor and wouldn’t have necessarily had electricity in their homes, and so the pub was where people went to be warm, to be fed, to feel okay about life — and it’s kind of still the same. A lot of young people don’t drink alcohol these days — they drink coffee, soft drinks or eat — but the pub is still a huge part of life in Ireland.
 
The late Kevin Laurence O'Rourke, an Irish Catholic priest and scholar who has translated more than 2,000 Korean literary works into English, poses for a picture during an interview with Monthly JoongAng at his home in Dongdaemun District, Seoul, on Dec. 12, 2016. [JOONGANG ILBO]

The late Kevin Laurence O'Rourke, an Irish Catholic priest and scholar who has translated more than 2,000 Korean literary works into English, poses for a picture during an interview with Monthly JoongAng at his home in Dongdaemun District, Seoul, on Dec. 12, 2016. [JOONGANG ILBO]

The Columban missionaries played a pivotal role in connecting Ireland and Korea in earlier decades. Can you tell us about their legacy?
 
Father Kevin O’Rourke (1923-2020) was a powerhouse of Irish-Korean literature. In agriculture, Father PJ McGlinchey (1928-2018) set up Isidore farm in Jeju and arguably transformed the food systems there. A Gaelic Football club in Jeju has the farm logo on their jersey and each year they hold a tournament in his honor.
Irish missionaries are also active in disability services in Mokpo and Gwangju. One Irish priest even built a boatyard on Heuksan Island to help the local fishing community  maintain their boats. The St. John of God Brothers run a mental health hospital in Gwangju. They don’t come to the pub often — I need to get them to come more.
 
Is there anything you enjoy the most in Korea or would recommend to other new ambassadors? 
 
Everyone goes for Korean barbecue — and I do love Korean barbecue. The trick is finding the right one. I told our new colleague: don’t go to the fancy places, go where the ajumma (older woman) is. It might not look so clean, might be basic, but those are the really good ones.
I’m a big fan of Osulloc Tea House, the one in Bukchon. I just love it. The Jeju teas are amazing. I haven’t visited the plantation yet, but that’s my next task. And I love Yeosu. Especially Hyangiram Hermitage. You go out onto the peninsula, it’s on the side of a mountain. It’s really beautiful. If I had to pick my favorite spot in Korea, that’s it.

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BY SEO JI-EUN [[email protected]]
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