Malbec, beef and kimchi: Argentina's top envoy to Korea uses food and culture to bridge the geographic gap

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Malbec, beef and kimchi: Argentina's top envoy to Korea uses food and culture to bridge the geographic gap

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI


Argentina's Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily on July 8 at Spatula By Haevichi in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, where the restaurant temporarily featured Argentine cuisine. The embassy hosted a separate event there to celebrate Malbec World Day in April. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Argentina's Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily on July 8 at Spatula By Haevichi in Gangnam District, southern Seoul, where the restaurant temporarily featured Argentine cuisine. The embassy hosted a separate event there to celebrate Malbec World Day in April. [PARK SANG-MOON]

 
[AMBASSADOR'S TABLE]
 
Seoul’s ambassadors are often gastronomes keen to share a taste of their home cuisine. In this series, the Korea JoongAng Daily asks the diplomatic corps to introduce our readers to their favorite restaurants representing cuisine from their homelands, while chatting about issues of interest to our Korean and global audience. – Ed.
 
 
Despite Seoul and Buenos Aires being halfway across the globe from each other — among the most distant capital city pairs in the world — Argentina's top envoy in Korea is leveraging language, food and personal experience to narrow the geographic and cultural gap.
 
Argentine Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya is not only his country’s top diplomat, but also a dedicated student of Korean culture. Celaya bowed and offered greetings in Korean before and after a recent interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily — small gestures that reflect a genuine commitment to cultural understanding.
 
“I started studying Korean in Buenos Aires before my posting […] and I did a one-year [diploma] course in Korean Studies — history, economy, society, religions, culture as a whole,” Celaya said. “One of the reasons is communication, but also to understand more and appreciate the differences within the world.”
 
One vivid example of the deepening ties, he said, is how Korean culture has permeated Argentine society. 
 
“We celebrate National Kimchi Day in Argentina on Nov. 22,” he said, becoming the first country outside Korea to mark the day at a national level. He pointed out how the Korean dish is increasingly served as a side with Argentina's iconic grilled beef, or parrillada, at local restaurants — a sign that Korean flavors are becoming part of the country’s diverse culinary identity shaped by generations of immigration.
 
Although Argentina may be unfamiliar territory for Korean businesses and is seen as volatile by foreign investors due to its history of currency fluctuations, Celaya pushed back on such perceptions, arguing that the current exchange system is far more stable and predictable than many assume.
 
“We have only one currency,” he said, referring to the Javier Milei administration’s move to unify multiple exchange rates into a single official floating rate for all foreign trade.
 
Because the peso now fluctuates only modestly within the band, he explained, “[the rate] varies only a little from Monday to Friday,” making planning for imports and exports much more predictable.
 
He added that this stability, combined with ongoing reforms to reduce the fiscal deficit, cut taxes and deregulate the economy, creates a more investor-friendly environment for long-term engagement.
 

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Below are edited excerpts from the interview, his first with a Korean media outlet, edited for length and clarity. 
 
Argentina's Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily on July 8 at Spatula By Haevichi in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Argentina's Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily on July 8 at Spatula By Haevichi in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Why did you choose this restaurant for our interview?
 
At the end of the 1990s, Argentina decided to promote the Malbec wine. All embassies and consulates abroad are encouraged to celebrate the occasion on the same day if possible, often with wine tastings. We don't have an Argentinian restaurant in Seoul, so we celebrated in Korea in a partnership with the Spatula restaurant on April 17, along with Argentinian cuisine and different kinds of Malbec.
 

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What defines Argentine cuisine?
 
Beef is central to our gastronomy, though we also enjoy pork, chicken and lamb. 
Another key element is the strong influence of immigration from Europe and the Middle East. Traditional Argentinian cuisine is called cocina criolla, which means "cooking made by the inhabitants of Argentina."
The Spaniards brought beef consumption; Italy brought pasta in many forms; France contributed breads, pastries and desserts; and Middle Eastern immigrants introduced exotic spices. In recent decades, Asian communities, including Korean, Japanese and Chinese, have added their own flavors to the mix.


This year marked the 60th anniversary of Korean immigration to Argentina. Could you tell us about the Korean community in Argentina?
 
Today, there are around 50,000 to 55,000 Koreans living in Argentina. The first group of migrants arrived in 1965 — 13 families from the Port of Busan, which was marked by the establishment of bilateral relations between Korea and Argentina in 1962.
Initially, many worked in the textile industry, but now you’ll find second- and third-generation Korean Argentines in all sectors: law, real estate, architecture even politics. I believe it wouldn’t be strange to see a Korean-Argentine lawmaker in Congress within the next 10 years.
The Senate declared Nov. 22 as National Kimchi Day, the only country in the world to do so after Korea, citing "the cultural and social contribution of Korean immigrants." Kimchi is served alongside grilled meat in some Argentine barbecue restaurants.
 
What cultural similarities do you see between Argentina and Korea, particularly around food?
 
Both cultures value gathering around meals to talk and connect. In Argentina, we even have a word for the conversation after dinner: sobremesa. It’s a long, relaxed time to reflect and share thoughts. One Korean in Argentina told me that it made adapting to local culture easy.
 
What is the signature dish of Argentina?
 
Asado de tira served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

Asado de tira served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

Empanada served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

Empanada served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

If you go to Argentina and want to try something typical, first is empanada and second is asado. When you go to a restaurant, you request as an appetizer empanada and as a main dish asado. 
Empanada is a pastry made from wheat flour and filled with ground beef — sometimes vegetables or other fillings. In different provinces and regions, you have different varieties. Asado is roasted beef. You need two key things: a good grill fire and good meat to roast. 
In our daily life, we also have milanesa. It is a thin slice of beef, coated with egg and breadcrumbs, then fried — or baked for a healthier version. We never use pork, only good-quality beef. During the week, it’s very common to gather with friends and eat milanesa together. 
 
How would you compare Korean barbecue to Argentina’s?
 
In Korea, barbecue usually features thin slices of pork grilled quickly and enjoyed with side dishes. In Argentina, meat — especially beef — is the centerpiece of the meal. Our asado uses thick cuts cooked slowly over a fire. When I first tried Korean barbecue in Buenos Aires, I noticed how thinly the meat was sliced compared to ours, and some Koreans even asked if I preferred it thicker. 
 
In Korea, beef is considered comparatively pricey. How is it in Argentina?
 
In Argentina, beef is accessible to almost everyone. Traditionally, Argentines consumed about 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) per week. Today, there are about 60 million cows in Argentina, and our population is 45 million — and in the best moment, each Argentine had at least two cows. Though consumption has diversified to include chicken and pork, beef remains an iconic product of Argentina — like the tango and football. 


What’s the current status of the FTA negotiations between Korea and South America's Mercosur economic bloc?
 
The talks began in 2018 but got suspended due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Another reason that it was difficult to continue with the negotiations was the agriculture sector, which is sensible for Korean authorities, but this sector is key for Mercosur and Argentina, and without it, it’s not possible to advance in an FTA agreement. These agreements take time. Right now, Mercosur is prioritizing on concluding agreements with the European Union and the European Free Trade Association. We hope the Korea negotiations will resume in the future.
 
Argentinian President Javier Milei brandishes a chainsaw during a campaign event in La Plata, Argentina, on Sept. 12, 2023. Milei has used the chainsaw throughout his campaign to symbolize how he will slash government spending and waste. [AP/YONHAP] 금지.〉

Argentinian President Javier Milei brandishes a chainsaw during a campaign event in La Plata, Argentina, on Sept. 12, 2023. Milei has used the chainsaw throughout his campaign to symbolize how he will slash government spending and waste. [AP/YONHAP] 금지.〉

How do you view President Milei’s recent economic reforms?
 
The new government, under President Milei, is based on three pillars. First is to reduce the fiscal deficit, second is to deregulate the economy and third is to open the economy. 
Because with a very high tax burden, you are preventing the private sector from growing. So you have to lower the tax burden to allow the private sector to grow, to create companies, to hire people. Deregulating the economy is a key aspect to enable that. 
Reducing the fiscal deficit is another key aspect, as was simplifying the exchange system, because Argentina had multiple exchange rates. It is not the case anymore. We're also fighting inflation, which was 25 percent per month in December, and now it is in the single digits.
 
Argentinian pesos [AFP/YONHAP]

Argentinian pesos [AFP/YONHAP]



There’s a perception in Korea that Argentina’s business environment is volatile. What would you say to that?
 
I believe the perception of volatility is not accurate. We unified seven different exchange rate systems into one. Now we have what the government calls a ‘floating exchange rate’ system. It moves within a band — upper and lower bounds — and within that range, the market decides. The Central Bank can buy or sell dollars accordingly. So, when journalists say it’s volatile, it’s actually not — it’s one unified system.
 
Argentina's Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya, right, speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily on July 8 at Spatula By Haevichi in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Argentina's Ambassador to Korea Dario Celaya, right, speaks during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily on July 8 at Spatula By Haevichi in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]



We heard you have a strong interest in Korean culture.
 
Yes, I study the Korean language once a week. I also completed a postgraduate course in Korean Studies in Buenos Aires. I co-wrote an academic paper on FTA issues. My daughter visited Korea in 2023, before I did, and now studies Korean. My son is a fanatic of Korean food, and my wife has developed an interest as well.

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