Slow-cooked and savory: Spatula serves up Argentinian dishes with depth and style

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Slow-cooked and savory: Spatula serves up Argentinian dishes with depth and style

Published: 11 Aug. 2025, 07:00

WOO JI-WON
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Cooks work busily in the open kitchen of Spatula by Haevichi, located in southern Seoul’s Gangnam District. [PARK SANG-MOON]

[AMBASSADOR’S TABLE - RESTAURANT REVIEW]

A restaurant near Apgujeong Station is almost guaranteed to be fancy, and usually expensive, but that doesn’t always mean the food lives up to the premium location and sleek interior.

So when I spotted Spatula by Haevichi in southern Seoul’s Gangnam District — a tall chic gray-brick building with an open glass kitchen — I was impressed but skeptical. Descending the staircase to the dimly lit basement dining room, I passed shiny black tables softly illuminated by individual lamps and chefs in crisp uniforms moving with intent in sizable open kitchens. It was elegant — so much so that for a moment I wondered if I had dressed appropriately.

A server greeted me as I sat down for the Argentinian course menu priced at 120,000 won ($86). I tried three of its main dishes.

Spatula by Haevichi in the southern Seoul's Gangnam District. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Carbonada criolla served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

The meal began with carbonada criolla, a traditional Argentinian stew typically served during holidays. A mix of hanwoo (Korean beef), vegetables, including tomatoes, and dried apricots was slow-cooked inside a scooped-out pumpkin. The tomato-based broth was both savory and sweet, with the pumpkin adding depth, making the dish rich and deeply comforting. The beef was tender enough to melt in my mouth.

The depth of the dish resulted from months of culinary research and refinement. "We study the country’s food culture and history for months, brainstorm as a team then test and invent the recipes,” said chef and director Park Min-woo.

Chef and director Park Min-woo poses at Spatula by Haevichi in the Gangnam District of southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Spatula isn’t just a fancy restaurant — it’s the food and beverage R&D center of Haevichi, a Korean hotel chain. Every three months, Spatula introduces a new culinary theme from a different country. Each dish is researched and planned by members of the team including Park, who are researchers, servers and cooks all-in-one, and served to real diners at Spatula to gather feedback. The successful dishes are slightly modified and later presented at Haevichi properties, mainly as part of promotional menus.

Past cuisines have included Indian, Chinese, Caribbean, French and Japanese. Until June, the spotlight was on Argentinian cuisine.

Empanada served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

Next came the empanada, one of Argentina’s most beloved dishes. Typically made in large quantities at home during national holidays, this dish featured a filling of hanwoo, olives, tomatoes, green peas and boiled eggs, all wrapped in flour dough. Thanks to pork fat in the dough, the crust was neither too crispy nor too soft. It was just the right texture and thickness to balance out the flavorful filling.

My favorite dish of the night was asado de tira, Argentina’s signature barbecue cut. The 1++ hanwoo short ribs were cut across the bone into thin strips and presented with mollejas (sweetbreads), morcilla (blood sausage) and chinchulines (grilled intestines).

Asado de tira served at Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

“This dish takes time,” the chef explained. “We don’t blast the meat with high heat. Instead, we let the coals burn low to slowly infuse the meat with a smoky aroma. That’s what makes it tender and brings out the natural beef flavor.”

After five hours of slow cooking, the ribs were incredibly tender and aromatic. Mollejas reminded me of sundae (Korean blood sausage) in appearance but had a bolder, more savory flavor. The chinchulines also lingered in my mind for quite some time that night. They were chewy, had a deep umami flavor and paired extremely well with the tangy and herb-infused chimichurri sauce made with parsley and olive oil. Two other sauces accompanied the dish, including salsa criolla, a South American salsa made with chopped onions and tomatoes.

While Argentinian dishes may be unfamiliar to Korean diners, the chef believes that the food has universal appeal. “People just aren't used to it yet,” Park said. “But once they try it, they tend to really enjoy it.” Spatula also hosted a special wine-pairing event on April 17 organized by the Argentine Embassy in Korea to mark Malbec World Day, which commemorates Argentina’s signature red wine variety Malbec.

Open kitchen in Spatula by Haevichi in the Gangnam District of southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Members-only bar in Spatula by Haevichi [PARK SANG-MOON]

Opened in April 2022, Spatula spans three floors and houses an R&D lab, a private dining room and a members-only bar. By the end of the meal, I could confidently say that Spatula was one of the rare places that actually lived up to its fancy interior and price tag. Would I return for the next themed menu? Absolutely.

“There are pros and cons to changing the theme, but some guests absolutely enjoy the novelty," Park said.

The Thai Cuisine course is currently being served for 120,000 won and will be available through Oct. 1. The next featured country is Spain.

Spatula by Haevichi is located at 15-8, Eonju-ro 164-gil in Gangnam District, and operates from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., except on Sundays.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]