Neighbours chef-owner Lee Keewuk brings fine-dining flair to casual Kiwi brunch in Seoul

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Neighbours chef-owner Lee Keewuk brings fine-dining flair to casual Kiwi brunch in Seoul

Published: 15 Dec. 2025, 07:00 Updated: 15 Dec. 2025, 11:34

WOO JI-WON
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

A sausage roll served at Neighbours in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

[AMBASSADOR’S TABLE - RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Shin Heung Art Market in central Seoul's Haebangchon was originally a bustling traditional market that opened in 1969. It serviced the local area through the 1980s but stood abandoned for decades until a wave of young creatives moved in. Now it’s one of Korea’s coolest hangout spots.

Among the creatives is chef-owner Lee Keewuk of Neighbours, a brunch cafe by day and a bistro serving wine and cocktails by night.

Born and raised in New Zealand, Lee originally had no intention of settling in Seoul. But while waiting out the Covid-19 pandemic in Korea four years ago, he found himself visiting the market in Haebangchon — literally meaning “Liberation Village” — an area he fell in love with and eventually opened restaurants in.

Neighbours inside Shin Heung Art Market in Yongsan District's Haebangchon in central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Chef-owner of Neighbours Lee Keewuk poses at Neighbors in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

“In a sense, it's kind of humbling or kind of ironic how the North Koreans came down to Haebangcheon and then they found this place, and I also found refuge in Seoul because of Covid and I ended up in Haebangchon," the 35-year-old said.

After the Korean War, Haebangchon was a refuge for displaced people, including those from the North, and the market served as a key place to buy necessities for daily life.

Today, Neighbours is one of the spaces driving the market's vibrant energy.

Avocado toast served at Neighbours in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

One of the best-selling dishes at Neighbours is the avocado toast, a classic in terms of New Zealand brunch fare. For the Neighbours version, fresh avocado from Australia or New Zealand is piled onto soft house-made Focaccia and topped with sun-dried tomatoes that cut through the richness of the dish. It is then finished with a bright avocado-basil green Gades sauce. The secret is the caramelized onion tucked beneath the avocado, adding a sweet but savory depth.

Another item that screams New Zealand is the sausage roll. The croissant-like pastry is wrapped around seasoned minced meat mixed with seasonal vegetables, such as carrots and mushrooms, and spices. The sausage has a bold, peppery heat that pairs well with the soft, flaky pastry. The pastry is also made with New Zealand kiwi butter, lending a rich, clean flavor.

While Lee defined the brunch cafe as “Australian, New Zealand,” he said it’s also “a mixture of things I like personally — a bit of Spanish, bit of Australian, French-based.”

"The best way to describe it would be the menu itself is a reflection of me, where I've worked or what I enjoyed eating. And New Zealand is such a melting pot of cultures, so the food reflects that.” Lee has worked in restaurants across the world, including San Francisco, Hong Kong and Paris.

Neighbours in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Stone mill found inside Neighbours in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Neighbours is known for its distinct interior, which combines two adjoining buildings — one inside the market and another just outside — into a single space, creating a stylish split-level second floor and a rooftop view of Namsan Tower. Despite the alterations, Lee wants to maintain the original vibe of the space where he can.

“I just want to keep it grounded in its roots,” said Lee, who opened Neighbours in 2024.

Traces of the past are everywhere: children’s scribbles left untouched on the walls, cement marked with the imprint of an old staircase and traditional objects, such as a stone mill and wooden money containers — first found in or near the building — dotted throughout the space.

Chicken Caesar served at Neighbours in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Among the dishes, the Chicken Caesar stands out visually and in flavor. Rather than placing chicken alongside the salad, Neighbours serves a crisp fried chicken thigh as the centerpiece, with a creamy Caesar salad on top. The saltiness of the crust and the mild salad balance each other, while the thigh remains tender and juicy until the last bite.

Neighbours isn’t Lee's first project at Shin Heung Art Market. Since 2022, the chef-owner also operates European-style dining and wine bar Vinvin — an establishment that has played a somewhat influential role in revitalizing the market and remains one of its defining restaurants.

Still, Lee is modest. “I can’t take all the credit. We were just in the right place at the right time.”

Lee says the decision to open Vinvin came swiftly. He wandered around the market on a Monday, fell in love with the restaurant's building, and by Friday — he'd signed a lease.

“When I first came to this neighborhood four years ago, there was barely anything,” said Lee. “It was a dirt floor and even a bit scary to come inside. But I thought it was a raw and charming space.”

In the hope of creating "something more casual,” Lee opened Neighbours, giving the new restaurant its name mainly "because it’s next to Vinvin."

Banana bread served at Neighbours in Yongsan District, central Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Apart from its Kiwi-style brunch dishes, Neighbours also offers a wide selection of sweet treats — including its banana bread. The secret to the dish lies in the preparation of the bananas themselves. As soon as they arrive, they are frozen and brought back to room temperature before cooking. “That intensifies the flavor, so some customers think we added cognac or liqueur,” Lee said. The result is soft, fragrant and naturally sweet — served with butter on top.

As creatives continue to flock to the space, the market has now become a "place where younger people can express themselves," Lee said. "There’s a good community here — people support each other, and if someone is struggling, others help out.”

Located at 99 Sinheung-ro in Yongsan District, the restaurant opens from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., except on Wednesdays when it operates from noon to 7 p.m. Brunch is served until 4:30 p.m., and dinner service begins at 5:30 p.m. The restaurant is closed every Tuesday.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]