Where kings once wandered: A moonlight tour of Changdeok Palace

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Where kings once wandered: A moonlight tour of Changdeok Palace

Published: 15 Apr. 2026, 12:53

JIN EUN-SOO
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

The night view of Kyujanggak, the royal library, at the rear garden of Changdeok Palace during its Moonlight Tour [JIN EUN-SOO]

When the sun sets at Changdeok Palace this spring, King Jeongjo (1752-1800) and his grandson Crown Prince Hyomyeong (1809-1930) invite you into the most private corners of the royal palace, where they once rested, strolled, pondered state affairs and held intimate family celebrations.

The biannual Moonlight Tour at Changdeok Palace, the only palace in Seoul listed as Unesco's World Heritage Site, kicks off its run Thursday. It is the longest-running nighttime program among Seoul's palaces, having started as a trial in 2010, and now draws an average competition rate of 130 to one.

"Normally, you would need a certified pass to enter the palace as well as move around within it during the Joseon period [1392-1910], but tonight, it's okay because you are here on an invitation from King Jeongjo and Crown Prince Hyomyeong," said commentator Kim Ji-hwan as he began the rehearsal tour on Tuesday night.

Participants of the Changdeok Palace's Moonlight Tour walks inside the palace sites on April 14 holding traditional lanterns. [YONHAP]

The tour begins at Geumhoemun, the palace’s western gate, which was typically used by government officials. Participants are given cheongsachorong — traditional Korean lanterns — upon entrance to light the rocky, sometimes hilly paths inside the palace grounds. Aside from the commentator’s quiet explanations heard through earphones, only the crunch of gravel underfoot and the rustle of leaves in the early summer breeze can be heard throughout the tour.

First stop is Injeongjeon, the palace's main hall, where the country's official state affairs were held, such as the investiture of the crown prince or greeting of foreign envoys. Then the tour leads to Huijeongdang, once used as a residence but later turned into office buildings.

A path leading up to rear garden of Nakseonjae [JIN EUN-SOO]

One of the highlights of the tour is visiting Nakseonjae and its rear garden. Built during King Heonjong’s (1827-49) reign, Nakseonjae served as a residential area and is notable for its restrained design, lacking the ornate dancheong — traditional multicolored decorative painting — typically seen on palace buildings, and instead featuring elegantly crafted wooden latticework on its windows.

The rear garden, usually closed to visitors during the day, is opened exclusively for the Moonlight Tour. At the top of a steep path, visitors are greeted by a plaintive daegeum (bamboo flute) performance at a pavilion. The view of Changdeok Palace from atop the hill, with N Seoul Tower glowing in the distance, feels almost surreal.

A daegeum player performs inside a pavilion at Nakseonjae's rear garden. [JIN EUN-SOO]

On the north side of Changdeok Palace sits what's dubbed the Secret Garden, the real gem of the tour, where Joseon kings built gardens according to their preferences to rest without being interrupted.

Buyongji Pond and Kyujanggak, the royal library, are among those built during the reign of King Jeongjo and were one of his favorite spots. Unlike other kings who barred state officials from entering the area, King Jeongjo was known to invite a wide range of guests there to enjoy the scenery with him.

Perched solemnly on a hill and surrounded by blooming azaleas, the site is reflected in Buyongji Pond, creating a picturesque scene.

Last but not least, the 100-minute tour concludes with traditional performances at Yeongyeongdang, a modest banquet hall in the garden that Crown Prince Hyomyeong built to host feasts for his parents. From traditional chamber music to dance and playful, game-style performances, participants are treated to a small concert accompanied by a cup of tea and a box of traditional snacks.

A traditional performance is staged at Changdeok Palace's Yeongyeongdang on April 14 during the palace's Moonight Tour program. [JIN EUN-SOO]

The Moonlight Tour runs through May 31, with sessions on four select days — May 10, 17, 24 and 31 — offered in English, Chinese and Japanese.

The English sessions have sold out, while the Chinese and Japanese sessions remain available for booking on the Creatrip platform.

BY JIN EUN-SOO [[email protected]]