‘Culinary Class Wars’ Korean taco king serves up authentic Mexican flavors with traditional techniques at El Molino

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‘Culinary Class Wars’ Korean taco king serves up authentic Mexican flavors with traditional techniques at El Molino

Published: 10 Mar. 2026, 07:00

WOO JI-WON
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Chintextle Shrimp Taco served at the Mexican restaurant El Molino in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

[AMBASSADOR’S TABLE - RESTAURANT REVIEW]

When people in Seoul try Mexican food, it is often the case that the cuisine resembles something closer to Tex-Mex — a style of food that emerged in Texas through Mexican communities.

Traditional Mexican cuisine, however, is not defined by excessively melted cheddar, piles of ground beef or bold, simplified flavors wrapped in flour tortillas.

El Molino, located in Seongdong District in eastern Seoul, showcases what an authentic taste of Mexico is like.

It begins with handmade tortillas. Corn is ground on a traditional stone mill, then kneaded into dough and pressed into fresh rounds — the foundation of many classic Mexican dishes.

El Molino chef Jin Woo-bum at his restaurant [PARK SANG-MOON]

"If you go to a proper Korean restaurant, they don't use instant rice," said chef-owner Jin Woo-bum. "It's the same idea." The 32-year-old Jin also starred in Netflix's first season of "Culinary Class Wars" (2024-) as "Korean Taco King."

One of the restaurant's most popular offerings is the taco tasting menu, which gives diners a chance to sample a range of regional Mexican flavors.

Sea Bream Augachile Verde served at the Mexican restaurant El Molino in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

One standout from the tasting course is the Sea Bream Aguachile Verde. Aguachile, often described as Mexico's version of ceviche, features fresh fish lightly aged for two to three days before preparation.

The acidity is carefully controlled so the citrus does not overpower the fish. Served with tomato water and avocado, the dish is finished with habanero oil, offering subtle heat. Enjoyed atop crispy handmade taco chips, the tender texture of the fish pairs neatly with the crunch.

One way Jin stays committed to tradition-based Mexican cuisine is by focusing on regional detail.

El Molino [PARK SANG-MOON]

One example that highlights this approach is the Chintextle Shrimp Taco. Drawing from Oaxaca’s seasoning traditions, grilled shrimp is paired with corn, feta cheese, arugula and candied sweet potato, and then finished with Chintextle chili paste, creating layers of sweetness and spice.

“There are many places that pretend to serve Mexican food,” the chef said. “We focus on preserving tradition with good ingredients.”

These tacos stand completely apart from the greasy, cheese-heavy tacos commonly seen elsewhere, offering a glimpse into how tacos are truly enjoyed in Mexico.

The kitchen also avoids processed ingredients. Mexican cuisine, he emphasizes, is labor-intensive. Acidity and spice levels are carefully balanced to suit Korean palates without compromising authenticity.

Battered fish taco served at the Mexican restaurant El Molino in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Battered fish taco, inspired by Baja California, uses cod fried in fermented batter to enhance crispness. The result is crisp and clean, not heavy. It is layered with chipotle mayo, green mango, salsa macha, onion, cilantro and lime. The mango element references mango with chamoy, a popular Mexican snack that pairs mango with chili powder. Though fruit with fish may seem unusual, the combination offers a fresh contrast.

Jin's commitment to Mexican cuisine dates back to childhood.

Born in 1993, he moved to the United States in middle school and later enrolled in architecture at the University of California, Berkeley. Growing up in California, he became deeply immersed in Mexican food culture, frequenting restaurants like El Torito and King Taco.

It was after completing his military service and briefly working at a startup — where he met businesspeople and chefs — that he decided to pursue Mexican cuisine professionally.

"I was young, and I thought I should try what I truly love before it's too late," he said. "That's why I went to Mexico — and I became even more deeply interested."

El Molino interior [PARK SANG-MOON]

He spent an extensive amount of time in Mexico City and about six months in Oaxaca, working and studying cuisine, including at the restaurant Pujol in Mexico City, which deepened his understanding of regional techniques and ingredients.

"What I experienced in Mexico was completely different from what I had known in California," he said. "The range and depth were far greater."

His credibility and deep understanding of Mexican cuisine are already established. He now runs multiple Mexican restaurants in different styles, from fine-dining Escondido to the more street-style La Calle. Escondido retained its one Michelin star this year, maintaining last year’s honor.

Mole with Grilled Lamb served at the Mexican restaurant El Molino in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

The restaurant also offers rarer dishes seldom seen in Korea, including Mole with Grilled Lamb.

Mole, one of Mexico's most complex traditional sauces, blends dried chilies, fruits, nuts, vegetables and chocolate into something closer to a dish than a simple sauce. At El Molino, the mole is house-made and served alongside grilled lamb, arugula, candied pecans and fried baby potatoes.

Looking ahead, he is preparing to open a restaurant in Mexico that incorporates more Korean elements. Plans are also underway to import and distribute flour made from native Mexican corn varieties for tortilla production, allowing more restaurants in Korea to make authentic tortillas.

El Molino chefs, including Jin Woo-bum, third left, with Mexican Ambassador to Korea Carlos Peñafiel Soto at the restaurant [PARK SANG-MOON]

Rather than aggressively expanding in Korea, he is considering relocation and restructuring of his current restaurants.

"I don't want to make food that just stays still," he said. "I think a restaurant only has meaning if it keeps moving."

Located on 19-18 Seoulsup 2-gil in Seongsu-dong, the restaurant opens 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays except on Mondays, and 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends with a break from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]