Meet the pastry chef behind Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's unconventional Christmas cakes

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Meet the pastry chef behind Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's unconventional Christmas cakes

Published: 19 Dec. 2025, 07:00 Updated: 19 Dec. 2025, 17:31

WOO JI-WON
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

Steven Jin holds one of his pastries [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

[INTERVIEW]

This year's Christmas cake collection at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul isn't playing by the holiday rule book — no trees, no gingerbread houses and not even a hint of the classic red and green color scheme.

Instead, one cake resembles a dome of strawberry ice cream, another takes the shape of an elegant bowl with delicate lines and the third resembles a polished block of luxury chocolate.

Four Seasons Hotel Seoul’s Christmas cakes this year are displayed at Confections by Four Seasons in Jongno District, central Seoul. [WOO JI-WON]

"That's how we are different from others," said Steven Jin, Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's Executive Pastry Chef, during an interview with the Korea JoongAng Daily at the hotel in Jongno District, central Seoul. He was appointed to head the five-star lodge's pastry program in late March.

"When management hired me, they asked me to create something different from the market," the 31-year-old executive pastry chef said. "You won't find similar designs or flavors elsewhere. They are uniquely Four Seasons."

For the Christmas season, the hotel unveiled three cakes: Crystal Vanilla, made with slow-cooked smoked vanilla, layered with crunchy cacao nibs and finished with oabika for a smoky, sweet and subtly bitter note; Montblanc, a chestnut cake topped with delicate chestnut cream and cassis compote; and Diamond Four Seasons Leaf, a dark-chocolate mousse cake with black-truffle cream and crunchy cacao layers, finished with a crystal glaze.

For the Diamond Four Seasons Leaf, the most intricate of the three, development began eight months ago.

The Diamond Four Seasons Leaf [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

"I started designing the cake in April," Jin said. After coming up with an idea, his team collaborated with a supplier to create 3-D samples of a mold. They then tested recipes to ensure stability, texture and shape to offer a two-part experience inside the fancy chocolate mold — the top is a truffle-hazelnut mousse cake, and the base is a dense chocolate filled with praline and Korean black rice below, which guests can savor like chocolate bonbons after finishing the cake.

Hotel Christmas cakes, however, have in recent years drawn increasing attention — and criticism — for their high price tags, with one hotel releasing a 500,000 won ($370) cake this year. Four Seasons' Diamond Four Seasons Leaf is priced at 300,000 won.

Jin says the price reflects more than branding. "Premium ingredients, intricate craftsmanship and the growing demand for unique, experiential desserts all contribute to this shift." For the Diamond Four Seasons Leaf, he said it "goes far beyond traditional pastry."

Born in China, Jin's decade-long career has spanned France, Hong Kong and Macau, where he has served at restaurants totaling 13 Michelin stars. He's also earned a silver medal at the French Dessert Championship. He said the hotel's scale — coupled with the respect he had for the brand and the potential he saw in Korea — drew him to Seoul.

"[Four Seasons Hotel Seoul] sets an incredibly high standard for quality and creativity. Everything is designed to deliver a world-class guest experience," he said, adding, "Korea itself is a dream for a pastry chef."

"The respect for seasonality, the availability of exceptional local ingredients and the cultural appreciation for aesthetics create an environment where creativity can truly flourish."

Four Seasons Hotel Seoul's Executive Pastry Chef Steven Jin poses for a photo at the hotel on Dec.4. [WOO JI-WON]

Jin now leads a team of about 30 pastry chefs — a role he describes as both "exciting and challenging."

"I can say it's the biggest place I've ever worked. It's a great experience, but it's not easy," he added.

Jin has introduced several new items to the hotel's menu in the past seven months: seasonal cake degustations such as its strawberry basil tart, afternoon tea selections and the hotel's famous summer bingsu (shaved ice) series featuring Korean fruit. Seasonality and locality remain core values in his approach.

His signature pastry style, however, is the use of salt, herbs and spices. "Salt is a booster," he said. "It pushes ingredients to reveal their true character. Whether in pastry or savory dishes, salt enhances the natural taste of each component. Spices and herbs, on the other hand, add aromatic complexity and layers of flavor."

To better meet Korean tastes — which he realized tend toward less-sweet desserts — the hotel also uses minimal sugar. "[Koreans] prefer more natural flavors and seasonal, fresh fruits," he said. "A great fruit doesn't need excessive sugar, which is why most of our recipes contain less than 5 percent added sugar, and sometimes we use only honey as a natural sweetener."

Crystal Vanilla, a smoked-vanilla cake with cacao nibs and an Oabika glaze for a smoky, subtly sweet finish [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

Jin believes hotels could play an important role in shaping dessert culture in Seoul, where post-meal sweets are still a relatively new concept and dessert culture continues to evolve. "[Hotels] set the benchmark for quality and creativity, introducing guests to the idea that dessert can be more than just something sweet — it can be an experience."

Looking ahead to 2026, Jin plans to pursue "accessible luxury," offering cakes across three price tiers — entry, middle and luxury — to welcome a wider range of guests. Ultimately, his hope, he said, is "people line up for our cake." Starting in January, the hotel will also shift its seasonal ingredients to Jeju mandarin, Jeju organic honey and Korean white strawberries.

Christmas cakes are available for purchase at Confections by Four Seasons and can be reserved by calling the shop directly.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]