The secret side of Jeju

Oh Chan-young

The author is a student at Branksome Hall Asia in Jeju.

When I left Busan to attend an international school on Jeju Island, I thought that I would experience a tropical blast, full of beautiful beaches, citrus fruit on every tree, lots of bugs and a school far from everything. That’s what most people envision when they think about Jeju. But after living here for a while, I’ve started to discover some of its secrets.

One thing that residents learn about Jeju right away is that it gets very dark at night. There are some streetlamps, but the distance between them  is huge, which forms pits of darkness on the streets. Once, when I was heading to hockey practice at night, I saw a crawling, no-legged creature in the shadows. As I got closer, it curled away from the path, and I finally realized what it was – a snake. In Jeju, you have to be careful when walking in the dark.

When I discovered that many horses live on Jeju, I started taking horseback riding lessons. I found a beautiful white horse and a saddle that felt like a comfortable leather chair. As I grabbed the reins, I felt like I was controlling an enormous friendly dog. It was relaxing to walk in circles or bounce around when the horse started to jog. Yes, horses are associated with a certain smell, but hear me out: Horse poop is very good for the environment. It helps plants grow, and you get used to the smell after a while. It’s a small price to pay for being around these noble animals.

You may already know that Jeju has many beaches. However, I was surprised to find some beaches without a lot of people. This is unlike my hometown of Busan, where the beaches are filled with hundreds of people huddled beneath an umbrella’s shade or splashing in the ocean, bumping against each other as they compete for space.

I was shocked when I found Hyeopjae Beach on Jeju’s western coast. The sand led to an endless plane of ocean, with only a few people surfing on water sparkling in the sunlight. The waves kept crashing toward me, and the lower part of the beach was completely clear: No one was lying on the sand, and no heads with big hats blocked my view. I could have a cool drink and read my book in silence. Whenever I breathed, my lungs filled with fresh air. This, I realized, is what it means to be truly at peace.

Jeju also has many great amusement parks, but there is something different about them compared to those on the mainland: Their lines are short! When fifth grade ended, my hockey team went to Jeju Shinhwa World, and we waited only about three minutes per ride. This is the most important factor when judging an amusement park’s quality. Just think about it: You can jump into a wave pool, where it feels like a giant monster is tossing you back and forth; then, a few minutes later, you can climb to the top of a megaslide and dry off before taking the plunge. With the constant “whoosh” on your face and the slide’s colors flashing by so quickly, you feel like you’re zipping right down some strange tunnel. And a few minutes later, you could already be on another ride.

When you visit Jeju, you’ll see the crowded beaches and cafes, the fancy hotels, the many restaurants and farms and the stone statues called “Dolhareubang” that welcome you to the island. But there is much more than that. If you stay long enough, you can find many secrets hidden across the island.