Along Dulle Trail, travelers can see a thousand faces of Korea

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Along Dulle Trail, travelers can see a thousand faces of Korea

Published: 04 Jun. 2026, 07:00 Updated: 04 Jun. 2026, 09:33

WOO JI-WON
[email protected]

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

A trail along the coast in Ttangkkeut Village, Haenam County, South Jeolla, which serves as the starting point of the Seohaerang Trail and the final point of the Namparang Trail on the Korea Dulle Trail [WOO JI-WON]

GANGJIN, South Jeolla — The sea never really leaves you on the Korea Dulle Trail. One moment it emerges beyond dense pine trees, and the next it glimmers past wild tea fields, above temple rooftops and even along roadside paths, always finding its way into view.

The 4,500-kilometer (2,800-mile) trail network connects the coastal edges of the Korean Peninsula, stretching along the east, west and south coasts as well as the borderlands near the DMZ.

For years, the government has worked to stitch together Korea's coastlines alongside nearby villages and regional destinations into one continuous trail, hoping to lure travelers beyond major cities and into quieter, often overlooked corners of the country.

Since the trail's official completion in September 2024, 251 people have completed the entire course, taking many from two to four years, according to the Korea Tourism Organization (KTO). But far more have taken on the four individual trails that make up the larger trail.

Some 5,269 people have completed the Haeparang Trail along the East Sea since it first opened in 2016. The Namparang Trail along the South Sea has seen 1,069 traverse its length, while the Seohaerang Trail along the Yellow Sea has seen 564 people complete the route. The final section, the DMZ Peace Trail completed in 2024, has had 683 finishers.

The trail's major appeal lies in how naturally it blends walking with travel itself. One stretch may lead to mountain and seaside temples, and another to historic neighborhoods where travelers can dive into the city's local cuisine.

Here are a few sections of the Namparang Trail and Seohaerang Trail in South Jeolla that offer a glimpse into the scale and variety of the Korea Dulle Trail.

Namparang Trail's course 83: Mount Mandeok's Dasan Chodang

In 1801, a man was exiled to Gangjin, a quiet county in South Jeolla on Korea's southern coast, amid the persecution of Catholics. For the last 10 years of his 18-year exile, he lived in a humble chodang, a small thatched cottage, at the foot of Mount Mandeok.

A road leads to Dasan Chodang on Mount Mandeok, along the 83rd course of the Namparang Trail [WOO JI-WON]

Dasang Chodang and a pond Dasan built to raise carp [HAENAM COUNTY GOVERNMENT]

But exile hardly slowed his passion for building a better country. He wrote nearly 500 books on philosophy, politics and even engineering, including proposals for political reform, at the chodang, all while mentoring 18 disciples.

His name is Jeong Yak-yong, better known by his pen name Dasan. He is now remembered as one of the greatest scholars of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).

Today, the site is known as Dasan Chodang. Past hanoks (traditional Korean houses), many now operating as guesthouses known for hearty breakfasts, a narrow forest road in Mount Mandeok leads toward the lonely site of his exile.

At the entrance hangs a small bow tied to a fence with “Namparang Trail” written on it.

The trail to Dasan Chodang [WOO JI-WON]

Entering the trail, towering trees and dense pine forests form a tunnellike path and the soft dirt trail feels almost meditative. Soon appears the small cottage where Dasan lived and wrote. Just beside sits the pond he built to raise carp, along with a rock carved with the Chinese character “Jeong,” his family name, both reflecting the solitude of his years.

Yet exile was not entirely lonely for Dasan. He had a dear friend. About 30 minutes away on foot is Baengnyeonsa temple, where he would meet the Venerable Hyejang, who was also his teacher and student during his banishment.

Cheonil Pavillion, located along a path to Baengneyonsa Temple from Dasan Chodang [WOO JI-WON]

The walk to the temple is considered one of the course's highlights. Along the way sits Cheonil Pavilion, where the sea suddenly appears beyond layers of greenery. Dense forests give way to wild tea fields spreading across the hillside, while a camellia forest designated as a Natural Monument is also part of the trail. The month of March, when red camellia blossoms bloom across the path, draws large crowds.

Down the hill, a concrete road lined with colorful traditional lanterns leads to the temple built in 839. At Buddha halls perched at the top of the temple grounds, views of the sea emerge beyond rows of tiled rooftops.

Baengneyonsa temple [WOO JI-WON]

A sea emerges beyond tiled rooftops of Buddhist temples in Baengneyonsa temple [WOO JI-WON]

Final course of the Namparang Trail: Mihwangsa Temple

A king from the Indian Udyana Kingdom was carrying Buddhist scriptures aboard a ship and sailing across seas in search of a destined land, according to a legend, when one mountain radiated an auspicious energy, with 10,000 Buddhas appearing around its peaks.

Believing it to be a sacred site fit to spread the teachings of Buddhism, the king landed there, the legend says. That mountain was Mount Dalma in Haenam, South Jeolla. Still today, it's regarded as a holy site.

Dosolam Hermitage on Mount Dalma [HAENAM COUNTY GOVERNMENT]

Mihwangsa Temple is located on the slopes of Mount Dalma.

The sea off the temple served as a key maritime gateway linking Asia since ancient times. New goods and Buddhist beliefs arrived by sea, and thus Mihwangsa Temple was established on the mountain's slope, serving both as a place to pray for safe voyages and as a base for spreading Buddhism.

Another one of Mount Dalama's famous spots is Dosolam Hermitage perched near Dosolbong Peak. It's where the monk Uijo Hwasang, who is said to have founded Mihwangsa Temple, practiced Buddhism while admiring the sunset.

The hike there is rugged, with sharp rocky ridges, uneven paths and steep hillsides where one wrong step could send a hiker slipping downhill. But the climb is worthwhile upon reaching the hermitage, perched atop stone steps high in the mountains. From there, panoramic views of South Sea and Yellow Sea open across the surrounding peaks.

Crossroads of the two trails: Ttangkkeut Village

The starting point of the Seohaerang Trail and the final point of the Namparang Trail is Ttangkkeut Village, literally meaning “Land's End Village,” in Haenam County. For some walkers, it marks the end of a 1,470-kilometer journey across 90 courses, while for others, it is where a journey begins.

Ttangkkeut Tower & Skywalk [HAENAM COUNTY GOVERNMENT]

That crossing of ending and beginning is most visible at Ttangkkeut Tower & Skywalk. Following the wooden deck trail curving along the hillside coast is the 9-meter sailboat-shaped Ttangkkeut Tower, commemorating the southernmost tip of the Korean Peninsula.

From the tower, the sea splits in two directions: the Yellow Sea to one side and the South Sea to the other. Ring the bell standing beside the tower three times — once for the past, once to reflect on life and once for the new road ahead. “With each ring, the journey begins again,” reads the sign.

Dang Grandma perched atop a stone [WOO JI-WON]

Perched atop a stone overlooking the coast stands a statue of a woman known as “Dang Grandma.” Long regarded as a folk deity protecting fishermen heading out to sea, visit her before beginning journeys, believed to offer comfort and courage to travelers setting out from here.

Seohaerang Trail's course 14: Oceano

One section of the Seohaerang Trail leads to Oceano, a tourism complex along the southwestern coast in Haenam developed by the KTO in 2003. Beaches stretch alongside nearby camping grounds, while yellow blooms of mudbaekia flowers fill empty fields.

A distant view of the Oceano tourism complex [WOO JI-WON]

Haenam 126 Hotel [WOO JI-WON]

For long-distance hikers, food and accommodation are just as important as scenery. At the Oceano tourism complex stands Haenam 126 Hotel.

Opened in 2024, the hotel offers 120 ocean-view rooms designed to maximize coastal scenery. Facing directly toward the sea, the building was selected through a design competition that drew more than 35 entries. With banquet halls, an infinity pool and barrier-free facilities, the four-star hotel has become popular among travelers, with many bookings even on weekdays.

Seohaerang Trail's course 16: Mokpo

The trail does not impress visitors with scenery alone. Seohaerang Trail's course 16 leads travelers deep into Mokpo, where history still clings to the city's streets and neighborhoods.

Samhakdo Island [WOO JI-WON]

Off the coast of Mokpo lies Samhakdo Island, which was partially altered during the Japanese colonial period. The area has now been reshaped closer to its original form.

Today, Samhakdo has become Mokpo's representative waterfront park, where one can enjoy boat rides and leisurely picnics by the water. The area was filled with laughter during a recent visit as a sports day was underway, while a family enjoyed a picnic on the lawn. During spring, many people come to see the tulips filling the park.

Items related to former President Kim Dae-jung’s Nobel Peace Prize are displayed at the Kim Dae-jung Nobel Peace Prize Memorial Hall [WOO JI-WON]

At the edge of park stands the Kim Dae-jung Nobel Peace Prize Memorial Hall, a space dedicated to the life of former President Kim Dae-jung, the first Korean recipient of the Nobel Prize.

Through five exhibition halls, the memorial traces his life journey, from repeated imprisonment and death sentences under authoritarian governments to the historic 2000 inter-Korean summit that laid groundwork for peace on the Korean Peninsula and earned him the Nobel Peace Prize in the same year.

Heading toward the foothills of Mount Yudal is Mokpo Modern History Street, a preserved historic district where colonial-era buildings and old alleyways still reflect the early modern cityscape that emerged after Mokpo Port opened in 1897, when Korean and Japanese communities coexisted side by side.

The Mokpo Modern History Museum No. 1, once Mokpo Japanese Consulate building, is the city's oldest Western-style structure built in 1898. Detailing the history of the production and exploitation of various goods during the colonial period, the building is also known today as site where the drama “Hotel Del Luna” (2019) was filmed.

Cafe Haengboki Gadeukjan Jip is a 120-year-old house [WOO JI-WON]

Nearby alleyways still preserve buildings such as the former oriental Development Company, a major Japanese colonial company established in 1908 to acquire and manage land in Korea, the old department Store building and Japanese-style colonial homes.

Some of the timeworn buildings have since been transformed into cafes and restaurants. Among them is Cafe Haengboki Gadeukhan Jip, roughly translating to “A House Filled With Happiness,” a 120-year-old house.

Galchi-jjim, or braised cutlassfish, and kkotgesal (crab meat) bibimbap served at Chown Restaurant in Mokpo [WOO JI-WON]

Many eateries that feature local dishes are also present, including Chowon Restaurant, serving regional dishes like galchijjim, or braised cutlass fish and kkotgesal (crabmeat) bibimbap. Together, they offer travelers along the Korea Dulle Trail a place to rest while soaking in the city's history.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]