From the 'Gate of the Dead' to lively haunts, Sindang-dong blends the historical and hip

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From the 'Gate of the Dead' to lively haunts, Sindang-dong blends the historical and hip

Published: 21 May. 2026, 07:00 Updated: 21 May. 2026, 09:07

WOO JI-WON
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Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

A private bookstore tucked between old buildings in Sindang-dong in Jung District, central Seoul, on May 14. [WOO JI-WON]

[ABOUT TOWN]: Sindang-dong

Just east of the futuristic curves of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Jung District, central Seoul, lies the seemingly quiet neighborhood of Sindang-dong, best known for tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes).

Beneath its tranquil atmosphere, however, stands a far more eerie history — one marked by burial grounds and wandering spirits.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), cemeteries spread across the hills outside the fortress walls surrounding Hanyang, the old capital, as burials were prohibited within the city. The area where Sindang-dong is located now once housed numerous cemeteries and cremation sites. Shamans naturally gathered here and built sindang, or shrines, to perform rituals honoring the dead, ultimately giving the neighborhood its name.

That eerie history does little to deter the adventurous looking for a new neighborhood to explore. Today, Sindang-dong is one of Seoul’s trendier enclaves, even earning the nickname "Hipdang-dong."

While much of the haunting history has disappeared from view, remnants of old Sindang-dong still exist. A few shrines still survive in quiet corners, while long-standing shops selling grain and restaurants continue to line the streets.

Sindang-dong's Ant Alley [WOO JI-WON]

Among them co-exist trendy cafes and bars, which at night grow even livelier, with crowds filling seats tucked in old buildings and market alleys. In Sindang-dong, the past has not vanished but instead learned how to live alongside the new.

"It still carries the feel of old Seoul and feels deeply human," said Park Sang-jun, the owner of Cafe Elak in Sindang-dong. "It may not draw as many crowds as places like Seongsu-dong or Hannam-dong, but the neighborhood once had an incredible energy of its own, and it still has the kind of charm that can pull people back at any time."

Remnants of the past

The story of Sindang-dong begins around Gwanghuimun Gate, making it a fitting place to begin exploring the neighborhood.

A person walks through Gwanghuimun Gate on May 14. [WOO JI-WON]

During the late Joseon era, hills near the gate, one of the six entrances of Hanyangdoseong — the fortress wall of the old capital — were filled with graves, including present-day Singdang. Funeral processions carrying the dead regularly passed through the gate, cementing its grim reputation as the "Gate of the Dead."

Along the roads outside the old wall, shamans lived and built sindang where they performed rituals to comfort wandering spirits.

Today, however, Gwanghuimun feels far removed from that haunting past. Now serving as one of the entrances into Sindang-dong from Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, the gate opens onto a lively street where old restaurants sit beside trendy pizza places and stylish cafes — a snapshot of modern Sindang-dong.

Walk through the gate and head east to enter the neighborhood, where old Seoul begins to reveal itself. Just a few minutes away is an alley that best preserves the neighborhood's past: Ant Alley. The poet Im Bo-seon named the alley in 2017 after the hardworking residents who lived there, drawing a comparison with ants.

Ant Alley Shelter in Sindang-dong [WOO JI-WON]

Old houses and shops line along Ant Alley [WOO JI-WON]

First, head to the alley's shelter where the stretch begins. The spot is also known as the place where Yoo Jae-suk and Cho Sae-ho sat and filmed during an episode featuring Sindang-dong for the hit TV show "You Quiz on the Block" (2018-).

A signboard crafted by a local woodcraft artisan introducing the alley greets visitors. Wander along the alley with weathered houses tightly packed together, remnants of the neighborhood’s earlier residential history. Murals throughout the alley reflect the community’s affection and pride for the area.

The next alley leading to the main road is known as "Myeongin" Alley, or Master Craftsman Alley. At its peak, dozens of blacksmiths operated there, though only a few workshops remain today, with one having operated for around 50 years. It's another old character that still defines Sindang-dong.

Old and new

To fully enjoy Sindang-dong, one has to experience both the old and the new. Among the longtime eateries that best represent the neighborhood is Hongtak Mokpojib.

Diners have bowls of noodles at Hongtak Mokpojib. [WOO JI-WON]

And during summer, there is nothing better than bibimguksu (cold mixed noodles) and kongguksu (noodles in cold soybean broth), both sold at 9,000 won ($6) at the diner. Operating for more than four decades, the place draws both loyal regulars and younger visitors seeking authentic flavors. Rather than fancy utensils or tableware, a communal iron table that seats about 10 people occupies the center of the room, surrounded by round metal chairs.

Kongguksu (noodles in cold soybean broth) served at Hongtak Mokpojib [WOO JI-WON]

The kongguksu served here uses thin noodles and has a generous amount of sliced cucumber, making each slurp especially refreshing. The nutty soybean broth is topped with a handful of powder made from black beans, black sesame and seoritae (black soybeans).

After a hearty meal, head to Cafe Elak. Known as the neighborhood's "living room," the staff casually greet and chat with longtime locals passing by while first-time visitors continue to file in.

Cafe Elak [WOO JI-WON]

Opened in March 2024, the cafe preserved much of the original structure of the old building and decorated the space with drawings and photos from customers, creating a warm and friendly atmosphere. Here, people chat, sketch, reflect and relax.

The cafe's owner, Park, a former athlete, opened it after falling in love with the neighborhood while taking a stroll around the area. Much of the cafe's atmosphere reflects the kind of community-centered life he missed from his childhood.

Park Sang-jun, the owner of cafe Elak, poses in front of his shop [WOO JI-WON]

The record store Mosaic in Sindang-dong [WOO JI-WON]

"I used to live like this when I was a kid," Park said. "But that kind of life is hard to find these days. I missed living in a world where neighbors naturally gathered together, and somehow this place became that kind of space again."

The cafe also hosts DJ parties on special occasions, such as anniversary celebrations, inviting longtime residents and regulars. Just behind it sits a record shop Mosaic that also draws young crowds today. Operating for seven years, the store offers a unique range of genres, such as reggae.

Before heading to the central area of the neighborhood that earned Sindang-dong the nickname "Hipdang-dong," stop by the neighborhood's famous Tteokbokki Town.

Mention Sindang-dong, and many Koreans instantly think of tteokbokki. And it's not just an ordinary tteokbokki served on a plastic plate. Here, the snack is served in a pot with DIY toppings.

Tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) served at Ma Bok-rim Tteokbokki [WOO JI-WON]

After the 1951-53 Korean War, a woman named Ma Bok-rim began selling tteokbokki in Sindang-dong. Cooked in a shallow pan with various toppings, Sindang-style instant tteokbokki was beloved for its spicy yet deeply savory sauce made of gochujang and chunjang (black bean paste).

As Ma's tteokbokki gained popularity, more restaurants began opening nearby, and by the 1980s, an entire alley of tteokbokki shops had formed. Ma's namesake restaurant still exists today, with customers continuing to fill the space throughout the day. The set menu comes with fried dumplings, ramyeon and glass noodles. And it's relatively cheap, at just 9,000 won for a one-person set and 17,000 won for 2-person set.

New life of old streets

Now it's time to head to the part of the neighborhood most associated with the nickname "Hipdang-dong" among younger visitors today: the area stretching from Exit 1 of Sindang Station to the alleys connected to Seoul Central Market.

A grain shop that still stands in Ssajeon Street [WOO JI-WON]

After the Korean War, this area flourished as a grain market with vendors selling various kinds of rice and grains at street stalls. In fact, the late Hyundai Group founder Chung Ju-yung also once operated a rice shop on this grain merchant street, also known as Ssajeon Street. More than 70 percent of the grain consumed by Seoul residents was reportedly traded here in the 1950s and 1960s, with more than 800 rice shops and grain warehouses operating in the neighborhood.

Among a few remaining rice shops today, along with stores selling kitchenware and furniture, are trendy cafes, restaurants and boutiques. Many of them preserve much of their original structures and exterior. Cafe Simsejeong, for example, transformed a former rice store built in the 1950s into a cafe, keeping its exterior intact while reinventing the interior with modern design elements that blend old and new. The mailbox-themed cafe Mailroom is another trendy cafe contributing to Sindang-dong's "Hipdang-dong" identity.

Cafe Simsaejeong, which has transformed a former rice store into a cafe [WOO JI-WON]

If caffeine is not what you are looking for, try Odd's book, a private bookstore tucked among old grain warehouses and aging buildings.

Odd's book is a reservation-only bookstore that also serves as something of a library, where reading and working on a laptop are also allowed.

Phrases and messages are plastered across the walls, while books available to read line the bookshelf at Odd's book. [WOO JI-WON]

A note where visitors of Odd’s book share concerns [WOO JI-WON]

Upstairs, comfy chairs and more notebooks are displayed, including a notebook where one can anonymously share worries about everything from work to relationships.

When the market comes alive

Few things can be as entertaining while traveling as wandering through a traditional market.

Sindang-dong's Seoul Central Market [WOO JI-WON]

Sindang-dong's Seoul Central Market in the daytime is filled with colorful seasonal fruits and vegetables, irresistible street snacks like hotteok (fried pancakes) and other treats made with fresh ingredients.

One of the most popular eateries is Okgyeongine Geonsaengseon, which translates to "Okgyeong's dried fish," well known for grilled squid. By 3 p.m. on a recent Thursday, the space was already packed with people enjoying daytime drinks.

A plump squid is grilled as soon as an order comes in, and despite its thickness, the squid remains tender, calling for some fizzy beverages. Another famous spot is Ipo Eomuk, known for handmade fish cakes made without flour, using fish paste and potato starch instead.

Okgeyongine Geonsaengseon's signature grilled squid [WOO JI-WON]

But stay until the alley is blanketed in the dark of night, when the market becomes even livelier.

While most shops close in the evening, some restaurants and bars remain brightly lit late into the night. That atmosphere spills out into the market as well, with many establishments also featuring open-air seating.

Bars just outside Seoul Central Market remain brightly lit at night. [WOO JI-WON]

The shrine-themed cocktail bar Zoosindang [WOO JI-WON]

Before finishing off the day, step back into the neighborhood's past. While many of the sindang that once distinguished the neighborhood have disappeared, the cocktail bar Zoosindang carries on its legacy in a modern way, inspired by traditional shrines.

Even from the outside, the bar immediately draws attention, with elements inspired by shrines greeting visitors. Finding the entrance can be tricky at first, as there is no visible door. Push the pig-shaped sculpture to enter, and make sure to duck, or you may hit your head on the low doorway.

Its signature cocktails are themed around the 12 zodiac animals, offering unique flavors. The "dog cocktail," for example, uses amaranthus-infused Bulldog Gin, hardy Korean orange spirits, grapefruit and smoked salt — a fitting drink for a neighborhood where old traditions and newer trends continue to mix.