Seoul's Dapsimni: Where antique treasures from Korea's past are seen — and sold

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Seoul's Dapsimni: Where antique treasures from Korea's past are seen — and sold

Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI


[ABOUT TOWN]: Dapsimni-dong
 
Seoul is often viewed as a modern, trendy metropolis filled with high-rise buildings, bright billboards and zooming subways. But behind its stylish facade is a more down-to-earth, people's place that goes less noticed. Depending on the part of the city, busy-working locals find solace and joy in sizzling pork belly in an intimate barbecue restaurant, soju shots under a tent, coffee on the roof of a decades-old building and walks along the city's hidden trails. Each dong, or neighborhood, has its own unique history and remnants of the past, making Seoul a checkerboard of cultures and atmospheres.  
 
In this series, the Korea JoongAng Daily examines both the past and present of Seoul's neighborhoods, offering recommendations on how to spend a day there like a local, including what to see and where to eat.  
 
Various antiques are displayed at Manbokdang, an antique shop in Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall, on March 11.[PARK SANG-MOON]

Various antiques are displayed at Manbokdang, an antique shop in Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall, on March 11.[PARK SANG-MOON]

 
The worn marks, the traces of age, the quiet passage of time. When time can be seen and felt, preserved rather than simply left to fade, it becomes something deeply valuable — a quality present in the collection of antiques.
 
In Dapsimni-dong, a neighborhood in Dongdaemun District in eastern Seoul, that passage of time lives on through spaces and objects kept alive by people who have long cherished them.

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The neighborhood's name, Dapsimni, carries several origin stories. One points to its geography. The area itself lies about 10 ri, a traditional unit of distance that translates to about 0.24 miles, from Dongdaemun, which was once the eastern gate of the city wall surrounding Hanyang. Hanyang served as the capital of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) and is now modern-day Seoul. 
 
Some experts speculate that the "ni" within the name Dapsimni refers to the ri unit of distance, with "sip" meaning 10, highlighting its proximity to the capital's walls.
 
Another account links the name to the early Joseon Dynasty, when the Buddhist monk Muhak Daesa is said to have stepped across the area while searching for a site for the new capital, with "dap" meaning "to step."
 
Old toy vending machines are placed in front of a closed shop in Dapsimni-dong on March 8. [WOO JI-WON]

Old toy vending machines are placed in front of a closed shop in Dapsimni-dong on March 8. [WOO JI-WON]

 
Whatever the true origin, Dapsimni has long functioned as an area that people seem to pass through or briefly congregate. It was never the most glamorous commercial district compared to central Seoul's Insa-dong, but perhaps for that reason, the traces of the old neighborhood remain especially pronounced. Today, the area is split in two by the wide Cheonho-daero boulevard.
 
North of the road, the remnants of the past seem more prominent, with old villas, low-rise apartment buildings and shops that have stood for decades. South of the boulevard, redevelopment is shaping the landscape, with newer commercial spaces and a large apartment complex under construction.
 
People browse antiques in front of a shop at the Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

People browse antiques in front of a shop at the Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

 
In recent years, the northern side is experiencing renewed energy thanks to the Dapsimni Antique Art Street where antiques, paintings and ceramics — some dating back to the Joseon Dynasty — fill the narrow shops. Once a niche destination for collectors and art aficionados, the area has begun drawing younger visitors on the hunt for vintage objects. 
 
Even as redevelopment reshapes parts of the neighborhood, Dapsimni continues to hold on to the past that defines it.
 


Dapsimni’s antique labyrinth
 
The area is known for the Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall, which has a history that spans from the 1970s. Shops that were once scattered across nearby neighborhoods such as Itaewon and Ahyeon-dong — selling old paintings, ceramics, objects and furniture — gradually gathered here, creating what would become the country's largest antique market. 
 
Today, the stores, located near Exit 1 of Dapsimni Station on Line 5, are spread across Buildings 2 and 3, as well as 5 and 6, of the mall — with over 100 in total. Low-rise apartments sit above the shops, where people still live today.
 
Stone sculptures are placed outside Building 5 of Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Stone sculptures are placed outside Building 5 of Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

 
The journey into the past begins outside, where stone sculptures of Buddha, stone towers and other artifacts are displayed. Inside, shops are clustered side by side along a long hallway, with antiques, collected over decades, spilling into the walkway — including tables, old doors and statues.
 
Inside the stores of Buildings 5 and 6, visitors can find artifacts from the Gaya era (42-562), pottery and everyday objects once used in the past, such as wooden shoes, brass bowls and rice cake molds. Instead of being neatly spaced out, relics are packed tightly together, turning the hunt for a unique piece into a more engaging search.
 
No expertise in antiques is required to enjoy the experience. Many shop owners are happy to share stories about their collections, whether visitors plan to buy something or simply browse. If the timing is right, they might even offer a cup of coffee or tea.
 
Antiques are displayed at Yesarang in Building 6 of Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

Antiques are displayed at Yesarang in Building 6 of Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

A stone sculpture of Buddha is placed inside a store at the Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

A stone sculpture of Buddha is placed inside a store at the Dapsimni Antique Shopping Mall on March 11. [PARK SANG-MOON]

 
Buildings 2 and 3 offer an even broader selection, with more options from modern galleries and shops. Here, visitors can find everything from paintings worth hundreds of thousands of dollars to smaller everyday objects and decorations — teacups, glasses, a candle holder and Hahoe masks — affordable enough to take home.
 
The fun of exploring the past has spread to international travelers as well. Nakito, a tourist from Nagoya, Japan, said she discovered the mall through YouTube and decided to visit alone. She left carrying a bag filled with small artifacts, including antique bowls.
 
The place, however, is no longer home to only older collectors and shop owners displaying items gathered over a lifetime. In recent years, younger curators and new shops, such as Hobak Folk Art Gallery, Gobokhee and OF, have also begun settling in.
 
Hobak Folk Art Gallery [PARK SANG-MOON]

Hobak Folk Art Gallery [PARK SANG-MOON]

 
Hobak approaches artifacts from a fashion perspective, presenting them as items that can be incorporated into everyday life. Part of the shop displays vintage clothing alongside original relics.
 
Its signature key chain features several beads threaded together, along with a gold-colored bronze piece engraved with the "Hobak" name. 
 
"We customize them. Some beads come from the Joseon Dynasty, while the rest are modern," the store's manager Kim Jae-yun said. He sourced the beads, as well as the other exotic items displayed. All objects can be touched and are labeled with their dates and prices, making purchasing easier.
 
 
Where to fuel up 
 
Exploring the mall's mesmerizing artifacts and objects can take hours. So, if you're feeling hungry, Woomi Seolleongtang, a five-minute walk from the antique shopping mall, might be a good option.
 
Selleongtang (beef bone soup) served at Woomi Seolleongtang [WOO JI-WON]

Selleongtang (beef bone soup) served at Woomi Seolleongtang [WOO JI-WON]

 
A local favorite for 20 years, it offers diners a rich seollongtang (beef bone soup) served with noodles and slices of meat for 10,000 won ($6.77). Paired with kimchi, the mildly seasoned broth and a bowl of rice make for a satisfying meal. Galbitang (beef rib soup) is also a popular choice at the restaurant, served with generous chunks of beef in a clean, clear broth for 15,000 won.
 
Another popular lunch spot is Mirak Kalguksu, which specializes in handmade kalguksu (knife-cut noodles). Priced at just 9,000 won, the dish is served in a deep beef bone broth, offering a satisfying meal that can easily carry you through the afternoon. The noodles are thinner and softer than the typical thick, chewy kalguksu noodles of other stores, giving the soup a lighter texture. The store has operated for more than 30 years and is open only four hours a day, starting at 11 a.m.
 
Long black and latte from Coffee Grounds [WOO JI-WON]

Long black and latte from Coffee Grounds [WOO JI-WON]

 
Dapsimni has many franchise coffee shops with large spaces, but for a more authentic coffee experience, head to Coffee Grounds. A winner of multiple Golden Coffee Awards, the shop offers hand drip coffee in a space big enough for just a few people to stand. Available only for takeout, the coffee is bright and acidic — with an Americano or long black costing around 3,000 won.
 
 
Part of Korea's cinema history
 
In the mid-1960s, Dapsimni served an important role in Korean cinema, as it was home to a major film studio.
 
Actors of films shot at a Dapsimni studio are displayed at Dapsimni Film Exhibition hall on March 8. [WOO JI-WON]

Actors of films shot at a Dapsimni studio are displayed at Dapsimni Film Exhibition hall on March 8. [WOO JI-WON]

 
The studio produced 79 films including "Martial War" (1964) and "Life" (1969), all roughly translated, being the most notable ones. 
 
Now, the Dapsimni Film Exhibition hall at Dapsimni Media & Art Center celebrates the area's history. Its halls offers a valuable introduction into Korea's modern cinema. 
 
Just outside the center, murals featuring the faces of actors and directors from films made at the Dapsimni studio are plastered along the walls beside the walkway. Passing these black-and-white portraits makes it easier to imagine the neighborhood’s past as one of Korea’s notable filming sites.
 
A person views murals on a wall. [WOO JI-WON]

A person views murals on a wall. [WOO JI-WON]

 
More familiar films and faces appear toward the main road, as the film street also lists works that helped define Korea’s film industry, including the blockbuster "The Admiral: Roaring Currents" (2014), turning the stroll into a series of "Oh, I know this movie" moments.
 


Finishing off the trip
 
Keep heading west for few more minutes from the media center and you will easily find Bon Noel, one of Dapsimni’s popular bakeries. Known for its salt bread, the shop has been loved by locals for more than a decade. The salt bread here is noticeably crispier than the softer versions found elsewhere.
 
Salt bread in front of Bon Noel bakery on March 8. [WOO JI-WON]

Salt bread in front of Bon Noel bakery on March 8. [WOO JI-WON]

 
The bakery's best-selling, 3,500 won salt bread often sells out in the morning due to high demand, sometimes drawing lines early in the day. However, it is restocked again in the afternoon. The bakery also offers other items, such as ciabatta, garlic baguettes and red bean paste butter bread.
 
One of the most well-known dining spots in the neighborhood is Neulbom Haemuljjim & Kalguksu, famous for the braised spicy seafood dish haemuljjim
 
The restaurant's 140 seats fill quickly during lunch and dinner hours with a mix of students, families and friends. Portions are generous: even the small size, priced at 60,000 won, is enough for at least three people.
 
The dish comes loaded with seafood, including octopus, abalone, shrimp and sea squirt. Unlike many versions of haemuljjim that rely heavily on seasoning, the flavor here leans toward more natural taste, allowing the flavors of the ocean to stand out.
 
Haemuljjim (braised spicy seafood) served at Neulbom Haemuljjim & Kalguksu [WOO JI-WON]

Haemuljjim (braised spicy seafood) served at Neulbom Haemuljjim & Kalguksu [WOO JI-WON]

 
A server holds a plate of vegetable gopchang (intestines). [WOO JI-WON]

A server holds a plate of vegetable gopchang (intestines). [WOO JI-WON]

 
Nearby is Hyeondae Market, often called Gopchang Street, where grilled gopchang (intestines) takes center stage. The smoky, well-seasoned smell of gopchang fills the air, getting stronger the closer you move toward it.
 
While the market also has produce stalls and small shops, it is the gopchang eateries that dominate the narrow lanes.
 
At Somunnan Gopchang, a server stands ready at an outdoor grill. As soon as an order comes in, the cooking begins. First, the intestines hit the hot pan. Then come the glass noodles, followed by cabbage and sesame leaves, all tossed together and finished with seasoning.
 
Hot and slightly spicy, the 12,000 won gopchang dish is best eaten right away at the tables inside, ideally with a bowl of steaming rice to soak up the sauce or wrapped in fresh lettuce.
 

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]
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