'Culinary Class Wars' Yun Na-ra talks Korean liquor culture, traditional brewing techniques
Yun Na-ra, a contestant from season two of Netflix's ″Culinary Class Wars″ (2024-), poses during an interview with the JoongAng Ilbo at her restaurant Yunjudang in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [KWEN HYEK-JAE]
This was a scene from the first episode of season two of “Culinary Class Wars” (2024-), a Netflix cooking survival show that wrapped up on Jan. 13. The trembling hands making alcohol before food belonged to 39-year-old Yun Na-ra, who goes by the moniker “Brewmaster Yun.” The JoongAng Ilbo met her on Jan. 22 at her restaurant, Yunjudang, in the Haebangchon neighborhood in Yongsan District, central Seoul. Yun has operated Yunjudang since 2019, but the restaurant is temporarily closed following the end of the show.
“I applied for the show just hoping they’d include one shot of me brewing soju,” Yun said.
“I wanted to highlight Korea’s traditional liquor culture and the dishes that go hand in hand with it,” she continued. “If I brought in premade alcohol from a brewery, I wouldn’t be able to show the brewing process. So, I chose soju, which I would be able to brew within the given time. Soju is also the drink that brings together all of the brewmaster’s ultimate skills.”
In the first round, she presented the meal titled “ Jumo’s Spread,” consisting of soju, suyuk (boiled pork slices), zucchini jjigae (stew) and a bowl of rice. Jumo refers to a traditional female tavern owner. Chef Anh Sung-jae, one of the judges for the show, praised the “special touch” in the dish and gave her a straightforward pass to the next round.
Yun recalls her life taking a turn with that experience. Before becoming the brewmaster she is today, she graduated from the Seoul Institute of the Arts with a degree in film and worked in performance planning.
Yun Na-ra, a contestant from season two of Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars" (2024-), poses during an interview with the JoongAng Ilbo at her restaurant Yunjudang in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [KWEN HYEK-JAE]
“Around 2011, I was planning a show that happened to be paired with a traditional liquor called Jahuihyang,” she said. “It was the first time I encountered a traditional Korean alcohol made only with rice, water and nuruk [traditional Korean fermentation starter]. I was instantly hooked and wondered, ‘How could something made from just these ingredients taste so fruity and delicious?’ A few years later, I sought out the teacher of the person who had brewed it and started learning. I was 30 then.”
Under the head of the Korea Traditional Liquor Research Institute (translated), who goes by the alias Park Rok-dam, Yun studied the history and culture of Korean alcohol and began brewing her own, referencing ancient cookbooks. That was how the ordinary Yun transformed into Brewmaster Yun. In 2019, she opened Yunjudang and told her customers to simply call her “jumo.”
Nuruk, which contains both mold and yeast, comes in so many varieties it's hard to count. By adjusting the seasons, the rice-to-water ratio or adding other ingredients, one can create an endless array of alcohols using just rice, water and nuruk. Yun has developed three original brews so far, all made at her own brewery in Unni-dong, Jongno District, central Seoul, which opened in 2024.
The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Yun Na-ra, a contestant from season two of Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars" (2024-), makes her own liquor using this distiller in the first episode. [NETFLIX]
Q. How did you prepare the ‘Jumo’s Spread’?
A. I started with the soju and thought about dishes that would pair well. I prepared a Korean-style table setting with stew, boiled pork, spring cabbage salad and three types of dipping sauces. The theme was ‘familiar food that we actually know nothing about,’ referring to tastes we used to know but forgot. In the past, people drank medicinal brews aged for 100 days in winter and floral alcohols in spring. But over the last century, with mass production systems, we’ve lost access to those flavors. I want to bring them back. Isn’t that what fine dining is about?
Yun Na-ra, a contestant from season two of Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars" (2024-), poses during an interview with the JoongAng Ilbo at her restaurant Yunjudang in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [KWEN HYEK-JAE]
You go by the name ‘Brewmaster Yun,’ or ‘Yun Jumo’ in Korean. Why is that?
I think jumo is probably one of the few female professions documented in historical texts. As the owner of a tavern, a jumo cooked, hosted travelers, gave them a place to sleep, poured them drinks and even helped with hangovers. I want to be a professional 21st-century jumo.
What can you tell us about the liquors you developed?
The ‘Yunjudang Takju 12%’ [translated] that I brought to filming is a glutinous rice brew made with the buuiju technique [which involves steaming glutinous rice, cooling it and then mixing it with nuruk to ferment], resulting in less water and a strong fruity aroma.
The ‘Night in Namsan’ [translated] brew is made using a two-stage fermentation process, a method that involves brewing the mixture twice to deepen its flavor and complexity. The base includes steamed rice cake, while the mash uses glutinous rice and even kabocha squash. It’s not overly sweet, so it pairs well with food.
The ‘Yunjudang Takju 17%’ is made using a two-stage fermentation process and a special method that involves using only non-glutinous rice to produce a clear, refined flavor. It’s the strongest and driest of the three.
Yun Na-ra, a contestant from season two of Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars" (2024-), poses during an interview with the JoongAng Ilbo at her restaurant Yunjudang in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [KWEN HYEK-JAE]
You were unfortunately eliminated in the semifinals. The theme for the final was 'Just One Dish for Myself.' What would you have prepared if you made it to that round?
I never got to show clear liquor, or yakju. I would have brought some and created a personal sulsang, or alcohol table — with cheonggukjang [fermented soybean paste stew], stir-fried pork, rice and side dishes. And then I would’ve said, ‘I am a fermentation person.’ That would’ve made things perfect.
You achieved the highest result among female contestants on the show so far. How do you feel?
It’s an honor. There are so many amazing chefs, so I’m proud that I grew step by step and made it that far.
Why do you think women are still underrepresented in the culinary industry?
After childbirth, hormonal and mental shifts are significant, and cooking is physically demanding. So, it takes even more effort for women to gain recognition, which is why the proportion of female chefs remains low. I, too, had just passed the 100-day mark after giving birth when filming began. Still, with inspirational figures like Chef Lee Geum-hee and Venerable Sunjae appearing on the show, I found the courage to keep going.
Yun Na-ra, a contestant from season two of Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars" (2024-), poses during an interview with the JoongAng Ilbo at her restaurant Yunjudang in Yongsan District, central Seoul, on Jan. 22. [KWEN HYEK-JAE]
How can someone get into traditional Korean alcohol?
Visit a nearby brewery. If you’re traveling within Korea, look up local breweries in advance. Korea has so many, thanks to its four distinct seasons and diverse cuisine, allowing the drinks to be just as varied. I recommend buying some and pairing it with seasonal local foods. If you're a true enthusiast, try brewing your own at home.
What’s your goal as a jumo?
I plan to brew using my own nuruk. Yunjudang is on a brief break now, but once the hype from the show dies down, I’ll reopen. I want to show, share and make more people fall in love with traditional liquor and Korean food. My dream is to one day become a grandmother jumo.
This article was originally written in Korean and translated by a bilingual reporter with the help of generative AI tools. It was then edited by a native English-speaking editor. All AI-assisted translations are reviewed and refined by our newsroom.
BY CHOI HYE-RI [[email protected]]





with the Korea JoongAng Daily
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