Forget 'just one.' Cocktail courses are the new trend in Seoul's bar scene.

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Forget 'just one.' Cocktail courses are the new trend in Seoul's bar scene.

Published: 28 Aug. 2025, 07:00 Updated: 28 Aug. 2025, 14:57

WOO JI-WON
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Audio report: written by reporters, read by AI

The M29 bar in western Seoul's Fairmont Ambassador Seoul [FAIRMONT AMBASSADOR SEOUL]

The Japanese dining tradition of omakase has leaped from sushi counters to cocktail bars in Seoul, with some serving up multiple courses of one-of-a-kind drinks.

At the M29 in western Seoul's Fairmont Ambassador Seoul, mixologists take the authentic approach of omakase — meaning “I will leave it up to you” — by spontaneously creating a course of cocktails tailored to each guest’s taste. The intimate H. Bar within central Seoul's Four Seasons Hotel Seoul adopts a set course style, similar to that found at high-end sushi restaurants, where diners enjoy a sequence of predesigned special offerings.

Both recently launched, M29 and H. Bar differ in approach but share the common ground of offering highly unique cocktail courses, experiences that are rare not only in Korea but also globally. The Korea JoongAng Daily visited both to explore and compare this new way of serving cocktails.

M29: Spontaneity in a glass

“Sometimes, I know from the first what I want to create, and sometimes, I just have no idea,” said Raphael Halimi, one of the mixologists who leads the cocktail omakase course at M29. “But there is no same recipe.”

Vinegar cocktail made by mixologist Halimi [WOO JI-WON]

Here, drinks are customized for each guest by mixologists through conversation, which is why the course is offered only at the bar counter.

Guests can choose between a two- or three-course cocktail omakase, at 56,000 won ($40) and 76,000 won respectively. Food pairings are also available at an additional cost, priced at 38,000 won for two courses and 58,000 won for three.

At the beginning of the course, guests are greeted with a welcome drink — sparkling wine or whiskey — alongside finger foods, dried jujube chips and mala-seasoned lamb. The mixologist then starts a light conversation and gradually draws out the guest’s cocktail preferences.

This reporter made a very specific request. “Something very unique and special, even spicy.”

Raphael Halimi makes a cocktail as part of the omakase bar course. [WOO JI-WON]

So came the first drink, Paris in Seoul. The name fit perfectly, combining Korean spirits — Hwayo soju and Kori herbal gin — with French liqueurs, lemon juice and a drop of peperoncino solution. Sweet and sour flavors from the lemon juice and liqueurs were slightly strong at first but were soon followed by a spicy kick that lingered at the back of the throat and spread warmly in the stomach.

Mission one of obtaining a spicy drink was accomplished. Now came the challenge of requesting something completely new right on the spot.

Halimi poured rum and citrus into a jigger, added some lime and a dash of balsamic vinegar, before finishing off with two small flowers as decoration. The presentation was quite plain, but the taste was completely new — with a unique tang coming from the lime and vinegar, tasting unlike anything else.

Watching a mixologist invent a drink right in front of you is fun and engaging, and each creation sparks curiosity. The mixologist can change depending on who has a shift that day.

As part of the three-course gourmet pairing, the cocktail was served with morel and black truffle pasta, with richness that balanced its acidity. All food pairings are in fact chosen by the mixologist, who decides among some options what will best complement each drink.

Omakase-style bars are still quite rare worldwide, including in France, where the 26-year-old bartender is from, according to him.

For the finale, the mixologist created a dessert cocktail to pair with a dense chocolate cake, the final dish of the gourmet pairing. His first time making it, the cocktail mixed coffee-flavored whiskey, espresso and milk, and was served with a stick of cherries inside a flower-shaped cup. It tasted just like caramel milk with only a faint trace of alcohol.

Dessert-style cocktail made by mixologist Halimi [WOO JI-WON]

Unlike typical omakase restaurants, where guests usually leave as soon as the course ends, M29 has no time limit. The pace is also up to you and the next cocktail is prepared only when you are ready.

H. Bar: A two-hour spectacle

H. Bar offers an eight-cocktail course in a lab-themed private room that seats only eight guests at a time. Inside the dimly lit space with a mysterious glow, shelves of flasks filled with spirits line the walls. The staff welcome you in lab coats, making it feel as if you’ve come to conduct an experiment.

Head bartender Odd Strandbakken and beverage creative director Alyssa Heidt at H. Bar. [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

Unlike M29’s spontaneity, H. Bar doesn’t invent cocktails on the spot but instead operates like a high-end sushi omakase, presenting a predesigned set menu crafted by head bartender Odd Strandbakken and beverage creative director Alyssa Heidt, a husband-and-wife team.

The cocktails at H. Bar push creativity to the extreme. One of the cocktails, Dual Daiquiri, features a pouch of bokbunja (Korean black raspberry wine) inside rum mixed with Chundo nectarine. When you take a sip, the pouch easily pops, filling the mouth with sweet bokbunja. Another highlight is the Sgroppino, a cocktail–sorbet, meant to be eaten with a spoon.

Dual Daiquiri and a finger food [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

Alyssa pluges skewers of black mango watermelon into the owl of liquid nitrogen. [WOO JI-WON]

Watching the two bartenders craft each drink is a key part of the 150,000 won experience, making it all the more immersive. Alyssa, an American bartender with many awards to her name, at one time appeared with a bowl of liquid nitrogen — white smoke curled from the bowl dramatically into the air. She then plunged skewers of black mango watermelon into the vapor, making the fruit icy on the outside, before placing pieces inside a glass with pisco, Seongju chamoe (Korean melon) and perilla.

Seasonal fruits take center stage in many of H. Bar’s cocktails, with every drink showcasing the best produce of the summer. One of the most inventive creations is Tomato Journey. Red, green and yellow handmade tomato sauces are placed on the plate, with each reflecting a different country's signature dishes: Italian pasta, Mexican salsa and Indian curry. Guests are to taste each sauce with the drink, creating three distinct cultural flavors.

Because each drink in the course is crafted with much thought and time, every detail shines — from the choice of glassware to the names, which sometimes take a playful turn. Matcha Latte, for example, contains no matcha at all. Instead, basil provides the color and aroma, while Korean pear, apple mint and pine nut milk create a complex flavor.

Tomato Journey cocktail [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

Bartender Odd Strandbakken makes a cocktail. [WOO JI-WON]

Over the two-hour journey, guests sip eight cocktails — or nine with an optional surprise spirit made with omija (magnolia berries) — but none of them are too strong. The course also includes three gourmet pairings, including hanwoo (Korean beef) jerky seasoned with aged soybean paste, to complement the drinks.

Reservations are required, with the service available twice a day, at 8:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m., from Thursday through Saturday.

H. Bar’s cocktails and finger foods as part of an eight-cocktail course [FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SEOUL]

For a special night with drinks tailored to your taste, M29 offers a relaxed, personalized experience. If you’re after something more elaborate and theatrical, H. Bar’s cocktail course will dazzle with performance, creativity and novelty that go beyond sushi omakase. Either way, both won’t disappoint anyone looking to explore creative cocktails in a new way.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]