Retro railways, pebble beaches and thick layers of history are just a bus ride away in Gunsan

A place must be doing something right when a French exchange student visits it three times during a six-month stay in Korea.

"I fell in love with this place during my first visit and came back again," said El Ouaili Oujdane, who had brought a group of fellow exchange students with him on his latest visit.

This alone says a lot about Gunsan, a port city on the western edge of North Jeolla.

And by the end of a day spent making dalgona (Korean sugar candy) beside abandoned train tracks, chatting with grandmothers making sikhye (a traditional Korean sweet rice beverage) and watching the sun set behind a chain of islands, his repeated visits no longer seemed unusual.

The total number of tourists to Gunsan through April this year reached 620,368, up 22.9 percent from 504,754 during the same period last year, according to the city government.

It has recently emerged as a car-free day-trip destination among the MZ generation, as many of its best-known attractions are within easy reach of one another. This reporter did the same, exploring the city as a ttubeogi traveler, someone who relies entirely on public transportation and their own two feet.

So hop on the bus. We have a busy day ahead.

Along the tracks

The journey begins early.

The 7 a.m. express bus from Central City Terminal in southern Seoul takes roughly two and a half hours to reach Gunsan, depending on traffic. There is a high-speed rail option as well, but it requires a transfer.

By the time the bus pulls into Gunsan's bus terminal, the city is only beginning to wake up.

The first stop is Gyeongamdong Railroad Town, less than 15 minutes from the terminal by bus.

Originally built in 1944 to transport paper materials, the railway no longer carries trains. Yet the tracks remain, running directly through a neighborhood that developed around them over the decades.

Today, old snack stores display childhood favorites, small shops sell vintage toys, antiques and retro trinkets, while visitors stroll along the tracks.

But to really step back in time, one must rent a school uniform.

For 15,000 won ($11), visitors can dress like Korean students from the 1970s and 1980s, complete with rubber shoes, vintage school bags and accessories. Many rental shops even provide photographers who take professional photos along the railway, a welcome perk for solo travelers.

It may feel a little awkward at first, but couples, groups of friends and even older visitors happily wander around and pose in matching uniforms.

One of the village's most popular activities is making dalgona, which gained global fame after appearing in Netflix's "Squid Game" (2021-25).

Pull up a stool, place a metal ladle over the heat and start melting sugar.

"Once the sugar starts melting around the edges, stir it slowly with a wooden chopstick," said Shin, who has operated the stall for eight years.

When the sugar has completely melted, he adds a small amount of baking soda.

"Keep stirring until it turns the color of caramel," he said. The mixture is then poured onto a metal plate and stamped with a shape.

"It's okay if you don't know how to do it," Shin said. "The people who say they've done it when they were little are usually the ones who burn it."

A taste of old Gunsan

By now, awake since dawn, wandering around in a school uniform and exploring the village, an appetite has likely set in.

Hop on city bus 60 or 81 and travel about 20 minutes to Binhaewon, one of the oldest Chinese restaurants in the Gunsan area.

From the outside, the building doesn't look particularly impressive. Inside, however, the restaurant reveals a completely different atmosphere.

Built in 1965 by a Chinese immigrant, the two-story building's interior is designed around an enclosed courtyard capped by stained glass. Private dining rooms surround the courtyard, while red lanterns and Chinese decorations reinforce the feeling of having stepped into China.

The restaurant's most distinctive feature, however, may be its communal seating. Three large shared tables allow strangers to sit side by side beneath the soaring ceiling. For solo travelers, it's ideal. One never feels completely alone.

The house specialty is mul-jjajang, or water jjajang, a dish found primarily in North Jeolla. Priced at 12,000 won, it resembles jjajangmyeon (Korean black noodle) at first, but instead of the familiar rich black bean sauce, the dish features a lighter broth packed with shrimp, squid, mushrooms and vegetables.

A city reinventing itself

Much of modern Gunsan was shaped by a chapter of history that remains visible nearly everywhere in the city.

After the port opened to foreign trade in 1899, Japanese merchants, bankers and officials poured into Gunsan. During the Japanese colonial period (1910-1945), the city became one of the major hubs for the collection and export of Korean rice to Japan.

Banks, customs offices, warehouses and Japanese-style residences quickly sprang up to support the booming trade, and some of those colonial-era buildings still stand today, shaping much of Gunsan's distinctive character.

During the colonial era, Yeonghwa-dong was among the busiest districts. And Yeonghwa Market, built in the 1930s, served as a commercial center where merchants, workers and residents gathered.

"It used to be the city's busiest area," said the owner of Woori Supermarket, who has operated a store in the market for more than 40 years.

"Twenty years ago, the city hall and the police station were all nearby. Then they moved away, and the area became quiet."

To revive the neighborhood, a major urban regeneration project was launched in 2019, and the market earned a new nickname, "Yeonghwa Town."

The old infrastructure was renovated, and vacant storefronts were transformed into spaces for young entrepreneurs. Today, Yeonghwa Town is a fascinating blend of old and new.

Long-established grocery stores and restaurants stand alongside newer businesses. One of the market's most beloved restaurants is Angela Bunsik, which has operated for more than 40 years and is known for its dangmyeon bibim (Korean sweet potato glass noodles) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cake). The eatery earned Blue Ribbon recognition every year from 2016 to 2024.

Newer establishments, including the Spanish restaurant Donkihote and a cocktail bar, typically open only after 5 p.m. Visit later in the day to experience a different side of Yeonghwa Town.

Just outside the market sits Cafe Teum, housed inside a former rice warehouse.

It's one of the places that embraces a traditional Japanese aesthetic with dark wood furnishings and high ceilings. Outside, hidden tables evoke the atmosphere of a traditional Japanese home and have become one of the cafe's most popular photo spots. And don't leave without trying the butter bar.

Where history remains

More than a century later, traces of the colonial era remain embedded in Gunsan's urban landscape. One example is Dongguk Temple.

It's the only Japanese-style Buddhist temple in Korea still functioning as a temple.

It lacks the colorful dancheong paintings commonly found at Korean Buddhist temples. Instead, the roof rises steeply, large lattice windows line the walls and the monks' living quarters connect directly to the main hall.

Built during the Japanese colonial period, it remains one of the clearest reminders of Japan's presence in Gunsan.

A few minutes away by bus is the Hirotsu House, a Japanese residence built in Sinheung-dong in 1925 by a wealthy merchant.

Though visitors cannot enter the building, it's remarkably well preserved. Its distinctive architecture has also made it a popular filming location, appearing in productions such as "Tazza: The High Rollers" (2006) and "Nameless Gangster" (2012).

The grandmothers of Malraengi Village

Just beyond the house lies one of the most memorable parts of the trip: Malraengi Village, a hillside neighborhood overlooking Gunsan.

The name comes from a local dialect word meaning "slope," and for decades, the village was home to Korean refugees, laborers and low-income families who settled there because it was one of the few affordable places to live.

Today, colorful murals brighten the walls. Former homes have been transformed into stores, galleries and workshops.

But what makes Malraengi Village memorable isn't the artwork.

It's the grandmothers. During the pandemic, elderly residents began gathering in a communal workshop to make mask straps. Thanks to its popularity, what started as a small project gradually evolved into something bigger.

Still today, handmade bracelets, rings and necklaces crafted by elderly residents are sold at the workshop, which has since become one of the village's most beloved areas. The colorful beaded jewelry, with many pieces priced at around 10,000 won, has proved surprisingly popular among visitors.

One woman tending the shop was 89-years-old, among the village's oldest residents. She was at the shop because she found more peace there than at home. 

"Even if it isn't their scheduled day to work, residents often come anyway," said the manager overseeing the workshop. "They come here to chat and simply enjoy each other's company."

A brewery is also where residents operate together and offer makgeolli (a milky Korean rice wine) and sikhye to visitors. 

"You have to stir this pumpkin well if you want good sikhye," said the village's resident, stirring a thick pumpkin paste just outside the brewery.  For 15,000 won, visitors can even take part in the brewing process.

Visitors can also view artwork created by elderly residents at local galleries. The pieces are made under the guidance of local artists who have moved into the neighborhood as part of an effort to breathe new life into the aging community.

A few Gunsan classics

Some places in Gunsan require little introduction. One of them is the bakery Leesungdang.

Widely regarded as Korea's oldest bakery, it has become one of the city's most famous attractions.

Even on a weekday afternoon, the bakery was packed with visitors carrying trays piled high with bread and pastries. The most famous items are the red bean bread and the vegetable bread. 

But for something creamier, make time for one more stop: Gunsan Cooperative Bakery. Its egg tart may be the best one I've had anywhere in Korea.

Before leaving the city behind, make one final stop at Chowon Studio.

The photography studio served as the filming location for the beloved 1998 romance film "Christmas in August," and it remains one of Korea's most cherished romantic films.

Save the best for last

Most visitors end their trip in the city. They shouldn't.

Seonyudo, one of the islands in the Gogunsan Archipelago administered by the city of Gunsan,  offers the perfect finale.

The 1.5-hour bus journey can feel long, but the payoff is huge.

The plan was simple. Eat samgyeopsal (pork belly) at Okdol Beach.

The beach is covered with smooth pebbles that crunch pleasantly beneath your feet. Right beside the shore sits Okdol Supermarket, where visitors grill pork belly and eat instant noodles at outdoor tables overlooking the water.

Even on a weekday, every outdoor table was occupied. Among those enjoying late-afternoon snacks were Oujdane and his friends, sharing plates of jeon, or Korean pancakes.

The group had traveled from Jeonbuk National University, taking a bus to Gunsan, exploring the city on foot and then boarding another bus to Seonyudo.

For most of them, it was already their second visit. For Oujdane, it was his third.

"I found Seonyudo while browsing Naver Maps," Oujdane said.

Using Papago and Gemini to help navigate, the group had pieced together the journey themselves. "We're going to stay outside and watch both the sunset and the sunrise."

At first, it sounded overly ambitious. But that was before reaching Seonyudo Beach, about a 30-minute walk from Okdol Beach.

When the sun began to set, it made perfect sense.

As the tide receded, the water became shallow enough to walk into. The sky slowly shifted from blue to orange and then pink above a wide stretch of beach that seemed to go on forever.

Oujdane's group wasn't the only one planning to stay for the night. Several other groups had also settled in along the beach, unfolding camping chairs, setting up small tables and waiting for the sunset to give way to sunrise.

Then it was time to head back, albeit reluctantly. 

It was around 11 p.m. when the express bus reached Seoul.

Part of this reporter almost didn't want to write this story. Some places are better when they're lesser-known. My only advice is go before everyone else does.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]