Old is the new cool in Gongju and Buyeo, Baekje's ancient capitals

GONGJU, BUYEO, South Chungcheong — “Bamti.”

It’s not a word you particularly want directed at you. A Korean slang term derived from an online character, it means ugly, tacky or unfashionable — pretty much the opposite of cool.

Unless, that is, you happen to be in Gongju. In this city in South Chungcheong, people proudly wear it. Literally.

Put bam, Korean for chestnut and Gongju’s best-known local specialty, on a T-shirt, and you have a “bamti,” a playful combination of the two words.

On a recent visit, the shirts kept popping up around town, particularly on young couples and children wandering the streets.

But the T-shirts are only one sign of Gongju’s growing appeal among travelers. Popular local dessert shops draw long lines even on weekdays, while a guide leads a group along Jemin Stream, explaining the history behind old buildings that now house quirky cafes and galleries.

Yet it doesn't take much wandering through Gongju to realize that the city's greatest charm lies much further in the past. Gongju and neighboring Buyeo once served as capitals of the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.–A.D. 660), one of the three kingdoms that ruled the Korean Peninsula during the Three Kingdoms period (57 B.C.–A.D. 668).

In these two cities, history is not confined to textbooks. It remains etched into the walls of ancient fortresses, hidden beneath royal burial mounds and preserved in centuries-old temples.

Perhaps Gongju and Buyeo are a little "bamti" after all. Their greatest attractions are hardly new. But just as Gongju has turned a word meaning “uncool” into a trendy fashion statement, these ancient capitals are making old the new cool.

Ancient capitals, now easier to explore

One of the biggest perks of visiting Gongju and Buyeo is their proximity to Seoul. Getting to Gongju takes around an hour by KTX from Yongsan Station in central Seoul, with Buyeo roughly another 30 minutes away by road.

Getting around has become easier too, thanks to a new demand-responsive transport (DRT) bus service that lets travelers request rides between designated stops instead of following fixed bus routes.

In Gongju, the service connects major attractions including Gongsanseong Fortress, King Muryeong's Tomb and Gongju National Museum. In Buyeo, it covers Busosanseong Fortress, Buyeo National Museum, Baekje Cultural Land and other popular sites.

Travelers can book rides through the "C-Tour Bus" app at fares equivalent to the local city bus rate of 1,500 won ($1.10).

Traveling from Cheongju International Airport and Osong KTX Station has also become more convenient. A regional bus service connects the airport, station, Gongju and Buyeo, with four daily departures.

Now with transportation taken care of, all that's left is deciding where to go first.

Gongju: Following the footsteps of Baekje's kings

After suffering a devastating defeat at the hands of Goguryeo (37 B.C. to A.D. 668) in 475, the Baekje Kingdom was forced to abandon its capital in what is now Seoul and move south to Ungjin, present-day Gongju.

For the next 64 years, Gongsanseong Fortress protected the kingdom's new royal capital.

Starting at Geumseoru Gate, the walk follows the fortress walls as they climb steep, winding slopes. Each uphill step reminds you just how far Baekje went to defend its new capital after losing the old one.

Though originally built from earth during the Baekje era, much of Gongsanseong Fortress today consists of stone walls rebuilt during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910).

Walk all the way up to a pavilion perched high along the fortress walls, where the Geum River stretches out below. Today, the river makes for a picturesque backdrop, but 1,500 years ago, it served as a natural barrier against invading forces.

But who ruled this kingdom from behind the fortress walls?

One of its most notable rulers was King Muryeong, Baekje's 25th king, who reigned from 501 to 523. A towering statue of the king stands in the middle of the road in front of the fortress, while his final resting place lies just a short distance away.

But his tomb might never have been discovered if not for a chance accident. In 1971, workers digging a drainage channel stumbled upon a brick chamber that had remained undisturbed for more than 1,400 years. Inside laid King Muryeong and his queen, along with treasures and stone epitaphs identifying them.

Today, at the Tomb of King Muryeong and Royal Tombs, large, rounded grassy burial mounds mark the resting places of Baekje royalty.

Although the original tomb has been closed to visitors since 1997 for preservation, walking among the burial mounds offers a sense of the royal legacy hidden beneath them. For a closer look at how the tombs were built and what they once contained, visit a nearby tomb-shaped exhibition facility.

But how did the tomb remain undisturbed for more than 1,400 years? Perhaps its guardian had something to do with it, at least according to ancient beliefs.

Among the more than 4,600 artifacts discovered with King Muryeong was a jinmyosu, a rather adorable stone guardian with a single horn and tiny wings. Don't let its cute appearance fool you. The mythical creature is believed to have warded off evil spirits and guided the deceased safely into the afterlife.

To meet this little guardian, along with some of the exquisite treasures buried alongside King Muryeong and his queen, head to Gongju National Museum.

Old streets, new favorites

After exploring Baekje's royal past, hop back on the DRT bus and head to Gongju Wangdosim (“Gongju Royal Downtown”), the city's old downtown, for a return to the present, though not quite the modern day. Instead, you'll find longtime eateries, quirky cafes and small galleries tucked along the old streets.

A good first stop is Gogane Kalguksu, a longtime local favorite housed in what was once a textile factory in the 1960s.

Start with tender suyuk, or boiled pork, served with sweet radish kimchi and steamed cabbage, before moving on to the restaurant's signature Pyongyang-style dumpling kalguksu (knife-cut noodles). The mild broth comes loaded with kimchi dumplings, wheat noodles, glass noodles and fried tofu.

With a full stomach, take a leisurely stroll along Jemin Stream. Here, small galleries, unique cafes like Ajeossi Cafe and decades-old restaurants sit side by side, giving the neighborhood a charmingly retro atmosphere.

Continue toward Gongju Sanseong Market, which has been enjoying renewed attention thanks to popular local dessert shops, including Bujatteokjip, a rice cake store that went viral online.

During a recent weekday visit, the shop was already packed, with a line stretching out the door. The market grows livelier after dark, when night market stalls offer everything from traditional snacks to newer street food favorites.

For a late-night bite, try gimpitang, a Gongju-born combination of kimchi, pizza and tangsuyuk (sweet-and-sour pork). It may sound like a bizarre combination, and look like one too, but somehow, the flavors work.

Before heading back to your accommodation, round off your day in Gongju with a visit to Magoksa Temple, tucked into the forested foothills of Mount Taehwa.

Traditionally believed to have been founded in 640 during the reign of Queen Seondeok of Silla, the temple has weathered nearly 1,400 years of turbulent history.

That sense of age can be felt at the Daeungbojeon, where much of the paint has faded from the wooden exterior, exposing the weathered timber beneath.

And continue the journey through Korean history right up until bedtime at Gongju Hanok Village, where visitors can stay in traditional-style Korean houses equipped with modern comforts.

Though purpose-built rather than centuries old, the wooden houses incorporate traditional architectural elements, including ondol, Korea's underfloor heating system.

The floors really do get warm, sometimes almost too hot, as firewood keeps the traditional heating system going through the night. Make sure to place thick bedding between yourself and the heated floor.

Buyeo: Where a lost kingdom comes to life

The journey through Baekje's history continues in neighboring Buyeo, which succeeded Gongju as the kingdom's capital in 538 and remained so for 122 years.

Multiple regional bus services are available from Gongju and Buyeo.

If there is one artifact worth making the trip for, it is the Baekje Gilt-bronze Incense Burner at Buyeo National Museum.

While the museum's main galleries are currently closed for renovation, the incense burner has an entire exhibition space to itself.

Standing 62.3 centimeters (24.5 inches) tall and weighing 11.8 kilograms (26 pounds), the national treasure is a masterpiece from bottom to top. A dragon rises from the base, supporting a vessel decorated with lotus petals. Above it unfolds an elaborate miniature mountain landscape filled with tiny human figures, animals and mythical creatures, crowned by a phoenix with outstretched wings.

The details are so intricate that it's easy to see why, even with the museum's main galleries closed, this one artifact deserves an exhibition space all to itself.

Discovered in 1993 at the Neungsan-ri temple site in Buyeo, the incense burner made headlines at the time and remains one of Korea's most celebrated archaeological finds.

But what did the kingdom that produced such remarkable craftsmanship actually look like? Head to Baekje Cultural Land.

Much of Baekje's original architecture has disappeared over the centuries, but this sprawling historical park, covering some 3.3 million square meters (815 acres), recreates royal palaces, temples, fortifications and homes based on archaeological research.

At its heart stands Sabigung, a reconstructed royal palace complex. Nearby, a five-story wooden pagoda towers over Neungsa Temple. Together, these grand structures make it easier to imagine the kingdom at the height of its power.

A river cruise through Baekje's final chapter

Like Gongju, Buyeo has a fortress that once protected Baekje's royal capital. But with Busosanseong Fortress overlooking the Baengma River, start exploring it from the water.

Hop aboard a traditional-style wooden boat for a roughly 15-minute ride. Along the way, forested slopes and towering cliffs come into view before the boat reaches a landing near Goransa Temple.

And here, according to local legends, you might just leave a few years younger and a little luckier — all by following a few simple steps.

Behind the temple, stop by a spring whose water was traditionally believed to keep Baekje kings healthy. Today, a sign promises an even more tempting benefit. Drink the water, and you'll be three years younger.

For extra luck, recite a Buddhist mantra three times before making a wish. And before leaving, don't forget to strike the temple bell once with a sincere heart.

But a visit to Busosanseong would hardly be complete without climbing the mountain itself.

Starting at Busosanmun Gate, the trail passes Samchungsa Shrine, Taejagol Forest Trail, traditionally associated with Baekje's princes, an ancient military storehouse site and Banwollu Pavilion before reaching Nakhwaam.

The cliff, whose name translates to "Falling Flowers Rock," is associated with one of Baekje's most tragic legends.

According to tradition, women of the Baekje court threw themselves from the cliff rather than be captured when the kingdom fell in 660 to allied forces of the neighboring kingdom of Silla (57 B.C. to A.D. 935) and the Tang Dynasty of China. Today, Baekhwajeong Pavilion, built in 1929, stands atop the cliff, offering panoramic views of the Baengma River below.

It is a fitting place to end the journey. Some 1,500 years after Baekje's kings made Gongju and Buyeo their capitals, the two cities have lost none of their appeal.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]