Michelin-starred Four Seasons chefs unite in Seoul for one-night Cantonese collaboration

Abalone harvested from the waters off the Korean Peninsula's southern tip, black chicken raised in Jeongeup, North Jeolla, and hanwoo (Korean beef) headlined an evening of refined Cantonese cuisine Friday as two Michelin-starred Cantonese kitchens from Four Seasons properties joined forces in Seoul.

Chef To Kwok Wai of Yu Yuan, the one-Michelin-starred restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, joined forces with chef Anthony Ho of Zi Yat Heen, the one-Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Macao, to present a one-night-only Four Hands collaboration dinner at Yu Yuan in Jongno District, central Seoul.

The chefs spent more than three months crafting the Cantonese course menu, and demand was strong. The 358,000 won ($234) dinner was fully booked well in advance.

The Korea JoongAng Daily sampled the seven-course menu, in which Korean ingredients found new expression through refined Cantonese techniques that emphasize freshness, allowing the ingredients' natural flavors to shine through careful cooking and restrained seasoning.

The meal began with a trio of appetizers: Live Lobster with Caviar Mousse, Marinated Scallop with Kimchi Jelly and Marinated Haenam Abalone with Green Pepper Sauce.

Of the three, the lobster stood out the most with its sweet flesh pairing nicely with a crisp fried shiso (perilla) leaf beneath, adding a gentle crunch to every bite.

The kimchi jelly, meanwhile, delivered a gentle tang rather than the bold spicy punch one might expect from kimchi, creating an interesting combination with the scallop's chewy texture. 

Next came the Double-Boiled Jeongeup Black Chicken Soup with Sea Cucumber, Dried Scallop and Morel Mushroom. Inspired by Cantonese nourishing-broth traditions, the broth was earthy, and the hours of simmering could be tasted in each spoonful.

Yu Yuan's signature Steamed Egg Custard with Sea Urchin and King Crab offered an unusually deep flavor for a custard, enriched by a concentrated crustacean broth. A bite of the custard, sweet king crab and creamy sea urchin altogether seemed to capture the essence of the sea in a single bite.

Next followed Zi Yat Heen's Stir-Fried Live Sawedged Perch with Asparagus. The fish was exceptionally tender and clean-tasting, while the seasoned asparagus added subtle layers of flavor. Rather than relying on heavy seasoning, the dish allowed the fish's natural qualities to shine. The fried scallions also provided a pleasant crunch that contrasted with the fish's soft texture.

The Hanwoo with Hawthorn Glazed Sauce and Crispy Rice was one of the most innovative interpretations of hanwoo. The meat was tender, while the hawthorn glaze introduced a sweet-tart dimension rarely associated with beef dishes. The crispy rice adhered to the hanwoo brought a subtle crunch that contrasted nicely with the meat's tenderness.

The Hong Kong Noodles with Shrimp Roe and Scallion Oil appeared quite simple at first. Yet the noodles carried impressive depth of flavor from the shrimp roe, with shrimp powder sprinkled on top. Served alongside was a light, clean pork broth, bringing the savory course to a warm and satisfying close before dessert.

The meal concluded with a Bird's Nest with Avocado, Honeydew Melon and Sago. The chilled dessert was refreshing, with pieces of honeydew melon providing bursts of freshness while the avocado added an unexpected creaminess. 

A Four Hands collaboration dinner is a culinary event in which two chefs from different Four Seasons properties or Michelin-starred restaurants come together to create a tasting menu for a limited engagement. Such events are held regularly across Four Seasons properties around the world.

BY WOO JI-WON [[email protected]]