From royal pines to ancient sites, Korea’s 528-mile East-West trail takes shape

Spain has its famed Camino de Santiago. Korea is building a long-distance trail of its own in a similar vein — 49 kilometers (30 miles) longer and winding through forests, historic sites and rural villages.

Once completed, the East-West Trail of Korea will stretch 849 kilometers across the country, from Taean, South Chungcheong, in the west to Uljin, North Gyeongsang, in the east.

The finish line is already in sight: 720 kilometers, or 85 percent of the route, had been completed as of August. Most of the remaining 129 kilometers are in North Chungcheong, with construction set to wrap up by the end of this year ahead of a full opening in 2027.

Korea already has plenty of walking trails, but the East-West Trail of Korea stands out for connecting some of the country's most celebrated pine landscapes.

Along the way, hikers can take in the Anmyeon pines of Taean, whose timber was used to build royal palaces and ships as far back as the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). A singular Korean red pine, named Jeongipumsong, seen in Boeun, North Chungcheong, even holds the unusual distinction of having been bestowed an official government rank by King Sejo of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) after it caught the king's attention on his way to Beopju Temple.

The prized Geumgang pines of Uljin, North Gyeongsang, are another sight not to be missed — their timber was used to build all five of the Joseon Dynasty's major royal palaces.

Winding through nature and history

The project stitches together existing walking paths with newly built stretches, weaving mostly through forests but occasionally spilling out along rivers and other scenic routes.

And there is plenty beyond the pines.

Hikers can walk beneath cherry blossoms around Daecheong Lake in Daejeon, pass historic sites such as Gongsanseong Fortress in Gongju, South Chungcheong, and the Bowon Temple site in Seosan, South Chungcheong. They can wander past the sweeping Sinduri coastal sand dunes in Taean and tackle mountain passes in Boeun, North Chungcheong.

The route also takes in Byeoljubu Village beach in Taean, the Ondal Tourist Area in Danyang, North Chungcheong, the Baekdudaegan National Arboretum in Mungyeong, North Gyeongsang, and the historic Sibiryong tavern in Uljin.

The trail passes through five metropolitan cities and provinces, 21 cities and counties, 87 towns and townships and 239 villages. North Gyeongsang accounts for the longest portion at 275 kilometers, followed by South Chungcheong at 261 kilometers, North Chungcheong at 231 kilometers, Daejeon at 53 kilometers and Sejong at 29 kilometers.

The 60.4 billion won ($43.8 million) project has been partly supported by private-sector environmental, social and governance (ESG) funds.

Bringing visitors back to rural communities

Many of the rural communities along the East-West Trail of Korea are struggling with aging populations and population decline.

The Korea Forest Service hopes hikers will breathe new life into the villages by bringing customers back to local restaurants, guesthouses and markets.

The agency plans to introduce programs aimed at revitalizing local economies when the trail fully opens.

"The true purpose of the East-West Trail of Korea is to bring communities along the route back to life," said Cho Young-hee, director-general of the Korea Forest Service's forest welfare bureau. "We hope the trail will become a new model that can revitalize the region."

Trial run draws high marks

Ahead of the full opening, the Korea Forest Service is preparing shelters, rest areas, signs and other infrastructure. The goal is to let hikers embrace the adventure of a long-distance trek while providing safe places to rest and spend the night along the way.

A total of 17 sections of the trail, spanning 244 kilometers, were opened on a trial basis in October and November last year. Hikers could reserve shelters and book access to certain sections — including the Geumgang pine protection area — through the Forest Nadeul-e website.

Around 80,000 people used the trail during the trial period, and 90 percent of survey respondents said they were satisfied with the experience, the Korea Forest Service said.

While the forest service aims to accommodate backpackers, the trail along Daecheong Lake — spanning across Daejeon and North Chungcheong — presents a challenge.

No backpacking shelters have been established along the 70.4-kilometer section of a route that mostly follows the lake, because much of the area falls within water-source protection and development-restriction zones.

The Korea Forest Service proposed that Daejeon provide simple backpacking facilities in residential yards or on the rooftops of village community centers within 500 meters of the trail, but the proposal was not accepted.

"We plan to encourage hikers to use private accommodations along the Daejeon section," a Korea Forest Service official said.

The Korea Forest Service plans to standardize trail operations by developing a reservation app and user guidelines. It also plans to offer a range of programs, from day hikes to backpacking trips lasting one night or longer.

"Once the East-West Trail of Korea is completed, we plan to develop it into a space for healing and exploration, a venue for companies to put ESG principles into practice, a platform for revitalizing rural communities, a pillar of sustainable forest welfare infrastructure and a world-class trail showcasing Korea's forest culture and tourism to visitors from around the world," a Forest Service official said.

BY KIM BANG-HYUN [[email protected]]