From Korea's oldest Buddhist temple to ancient mountaintop shrines, Ganghwa Island is steeped in history

On Ganghwa Island, small villages dot the land, tied together by winding roads. Bright GS25, CU and 7-Eleven convenience stores feel out of place among charming rustic farmhouses. Buses run on long, sometimes 2-hour intervals between townships.

But there is more than meets the eye when it comes to the Ganghwado, also known as Ganghwa Island, off the coast of Incheon. 

While the island landscape is quaint — with rolling hills and roadside produce stalls — its roots run deep, stretching all the way back to the mythical stories of Dangun, the "first" Korean to walk the peninsula. 

Though technically within the jurisdiction of Incheon Metropolitan City, Ganghwa Island is far from a cityscape.

In a single weekend, one can sample the island's rich history, from the ancient temple of Jeondeungsa, said to be the oldest in the country, all the way up to the top of Manisan, where, according to Korean lore, the founder of the peninsula's first kingdom in 2333 B.C. offered sacrifices in hope of peace and prosperity. 

All can be relished from a pension, a type of vacation cabin which is common on the island. 

Getting there

If you're just visiting Korea and a car isn't an option, Seoul's vast public transport network can take you to the island relatively easily.  

From central Seoul, the Airport Railroad Express can get you to Gimpo, from which buses run to Ganghwa. Be warned, though, the buses can get full quickly at peak commuting times. 

There are two main paths into the island, taking you to either Ganghwa-eup, the main town on the island, or Hwado-myeon, the southern village at the foot of Manisan, the isle's highest peak.

Pensions are plentiful, some even have swimming pools and cafes attached. Somewhere along the south coast is recommended, feeling like a true escape from the capital, with sweeping views of the Yellow Sea and verdant rice fields. 

Time your journey well to make the connecting ride to your stay. Buses are infrequent, and do not provide the same live tracking as in Seoul; instead, relying on a physical timetable — old school! 

A mythical mountain

After a slow morning at the pension, lace up your boots, and make your way to Hamheodongcheon Campground on the eastern flank of Manisan.

There is an option to ascend from the Hwado side of the mountain, but the descent along the ridgeline could prove tricky after a long climb. 

Entrance into the park costs a mere 2,000 won ($1.29). 

After the path veers off the campground road, the track steepens through an oak forest. The altitude gains fast, and you'll begin to glimpse the ocean view through the canopy.

Manisan is no ordinary mountain; in fact, its story is mythical. Dangun, the legendary figure known as the "first Korean," frequently visited the mountain.   

According to Korean legend, Dangun founded Gojoseon — Ancient Korea's first kingdom. The king would place sacrifices on an altar at the summit of Manisan, and pray to the gods that peace and prosperity would come to his new kingdom. 

Over 4,000 years of tradition, history and lore creates a palpable sense of energy as you climb the peak; you are walking in the footsteps of Korea's maker! 

The forest soon gives way to a steep ridge, it's exposed and exhilarating, but very doable. Traverse the ridge until you arrive at a huge slab of granite with writing etched into the stone. Here is Dangun's shrine. 

Just after the shrine is his altar, a rocky fortress built into the rock. It has been continually maintained for thousands of years. An ancient hornbeam tree juts out from one of the rocky walls, its roots one with the fortress.

Enjoy vistas reaching all the way to Incheon International Airport, and north over the island. 

Descend down the Hwado route, which mainly consists of well-made stairs, an easy option after a hard climb. 

Korea's oldest Buddhist temple

Jeondeungsa is the oldest extant Buddhist temple on the Korean Peninsula, founded in the year 381 A.D. It's another example of how far back Ganghwa Island's history goes. 

It's nestled amongst a forested hillock in the southeast corner of the island, easily reachable by bus. 

There's no entrance fee, so simply walk through the hulking entrance gate, which in past times has repelled invasions by French colonialists and been used as a seat of royal Korean power. 

The temple also includes a teahouse, which has existed for centuries, but now in a more contemporary form. Stop by for a refreshing chilled drink, or a hot one if you visit in the colder months.

The complex comprises multiple buildings, all regularly used by the monks, who may be chanting as you pass, adding to the ethereal atmosphere of a site that has stood strong for a millennium. 

There is also a temple-stay program at Jeondeungsa, where you can eat and partake in activities alongside the monks, sleeping in a dedicated dormitory nearby. 

A gallery gift shop is also housed in one of the temple buildings, exquisite in the amount of detail put into its winged eaves and tiled roofs. The shop is filled with all sorts of handcrafted goods, from unique ceramic mugs and bowls to carved wooden figures of Buddhist lineage and silver and copper rings and necklaces. 

Pick up a souvenir for a relatively good price, and with peace of mind knowing it was mindfully crafted by hand rather than in a factory. 

Cheap and delicious dining 

In the village of Hwado, you'll find a variety of eating options for a traditional Korean meal, whether it be bulgogi (braised marinated beef), kimchi stew or gimbap (seaweed rice rolls).

If you want value for money, go for the traditional option. There's a place just outside the park exit called Chamsong Restaurant that serves all of the above.

They also offer rice bowls filled with steamed eggplant, egg and deodeok, colloquially known as "mountain meat" - a fibrous mountain-growing root vegetable.

Several rice bowls and a serving of bulgogi will easily feed a group of four, thanks to the numerous banchan brought out with the mains at no extra cost.  

Banchan are Korean side dishes: kimchi, seaweed salad, sprouts, pickled radish, and noodle salads are all included in this meal, as well as leafy greens and a variety of sauces to dress the rice bowls with. All of these dishes came to 50,000 won in total, 12,500 won each. 

For an after-lunch sweet treat, there are plenty of convenience stores in Hwado township to grab an ice cream. 

Buskers beach

From Hwado and Jeondeungsa, it's a short 10-minute bus ride to Dongmak Beach. 

The beach transforms depending on the tide. When it's low, the sand expands out into a never-ending mudflat. If you have children, prepare for a bit of mess; it's popular to become one with the sludge. 

At high tide, it resembles more of your typical beach. If there's little wind, the sunset creates a magical reflection across the water. 

Dongmak is a popular spot for busking, and you'll often find singers and musicians belting out tunes, old and new, along the seashore; sometimes they even collaborate. 

As the sun sets, walk down the eastern side of the shore and onto the Bunori Dondae sunset point. The views are magical, and there are plenty of seats to relax on while distant busking hails down the setting sun.  

BY FERGUS GOODALL-SMITH [[email protected]]