Beyond the bowl: Seoul workshop reveals Korea’s native rice varieties and stories in every grain

In Korea, a warm bowl of rice sits at the heart of every meal, and in many ways, the culture itself.

The Korean word bap means not just cooked rice, but also a meal, reflecting rice's central role in everyday life.

Even the question “Have you eaten?” is the equivalent of asking about someone’s well-being.

Yet a closer look — and taste — reveals that rice is far from uniform, with each variety bearing distinct characteristics shaped by where it is grown, according to chef Paik Ung-jae, an expert on Korean native rice, during a rice-cooking workshop hosted by the Seoul Metropolitan Government on Sunday.

Called “Discovering Korea Through a Bowl of Rice,” the program took place at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) in central Seoul as part of the ongoing Taste of Seoul 2026 event.

Paik currently runs a restaurant in Jongno District, central Seoul, called Takwolhan Bapmat, which roughly translates in Korean to “exceptional taste.” Paik has worked in the food and hospitality industry for around 15 years, while also writing books and researching Korean native rice.

“Like wine or coffee, rice has varieties, personalities and flavors,” Paik said. “Korea’s native rice carries stories of places, farmers and generations.”

Paik highlighted gwido, a variety that originates in Kusong, North Pyongan Province, North Korea.

All about rice

Korea is home to a multitude of native rice varieties that farmers have cultivated for generations. In 1913, the country recorded a whopping 1,451 varieties. Most nearly disappeared during Japan’s 1910-45 colonial rule, as Japanese varieties that produced more grain with fertilizer became widely used. In recent years, farmers have worked to restore roughly 450 native rice varieties.

During the workshop, Paik demonstrated how to cook rice using a pressure cooker, which is less common today because rice cookers are widely used.

The process began with properly washing the rice. Paik advised that in the first wash, you should drain the water immediately. In the second wash, you are allowed to take your time, and it is recommended to add friction to the rice by mixing it with your hand.

Paik also explained the traditional method of measuring water by placing a hand flat over the rice and adding enough water to reach the back of the hand, a technique passed down for decades. However, Paik cautioned that because hand sizes vary, this method isn’t entirely reliable.

Cooking rice may seem to require precision and expertise, but Paik reassured participants there was no need to overthink it.

“There’s no right answer. Rice is preference,” Paik said. “Some people prefer soft and sticky rice, while others may prefer firm grains that separate easily.”

After the rice finished cooking, Paik gave each participant some of the cooked rice, along with roasted gim (seaweed) and soy sauce. He recommended that on the first bite, participants taste only the rice to savor its aroma, flavor, texture and the lingering taste after swallowing.

Gwido was firm but chewy, with an earthy flavor. One participant from Italy marveled at how different the rice was from risotto, which tends to be softer and stickier because of the distinct cooking methods.

“The taste of gwido has a personality of its own,” a Korean participant said.

Seoul's culinary offerings

The rice workshop was part of Taste of Seoul 2026, which kicked off Friday and continues through Thursday, highlighting Seoul’s culinary scene through curated lists of dining destinations, cooking classes, marketplaces and food venue tours.

Some programs target foreigners, such as the “Majang-dong Hanwoo BBQ Experience,” which runs through Nov. 6. Participants can eat at restaurants at Majang Meat Market in Seongdong District, eastern Seoul, one of the capital’s best-known destinations for hanwoo, or Korean beef.

For its curated list, a panel of 60 experts — food journalists, gastronomic travelers, academic researchers, professional chefs and tourism specialists — selected 100 eateries and evaluated them based on global appeal, expertise and buzz.

The establishments are divided into seven categories — Korean, Asian, Western, vegetarian, cafes and dessert, grills and, finally, bars and pubs.

For the first time, Taste of Seoul 2026 debuted a separate curated list of 50 cafes and bakeries, shedding light on Seoul’s coffee and dessert scene. The list was based on multiple criteria including quality, visitor experience, popularity and accessibility for tourists.

The full curated list is available in English on the Taste of Seoul website.

Recognizing best taste

A ceremony for the Taste of Seoul Awards was also held at the DDP on Sunday, honoring top establishments across the aforementioned seven categories: Mingles for Best Korean, Vinho for Best Western, Gaehyanggak for Best Asian, Gold Pig Restaurant for Best Grill, Légume for Best Vegetarian, JL Dessert Bar for Best Cafe & Dessert and Zest for Best Bar & Pub. Onjium received a special recognition award, selected through votes by chefs from the 100 shortlisted eateries.

“I believe Korean food has come this far thanks to the many culinary masters who came before us and devoted themselves to preserving it,” Cho Eun-hee, co-chef of Onjium, a one-Michelin-star fine dining restaurant that specializes in Korean gastronomy, said during her award acceptance speech.

“We will continue to work hard to serve as a bridge in passing down traditional Korean cuisine to the next generation.”

BY SHIN MIN-HEE [[email protected]]